surfers over 50

pushing 70 and still surfing...

2012-01-24T21:03:00.000-08:00

I got back into surfing in '96 after a 20 year layoff. My buddy and I rented a couple boards in Hawaii to see if we could still do it. He was much better than me, which inspired me to work my ass off and improve.

We both ended up with a quiver of longboards and surfed from Alaska to Costa Rica, dragging our wives along, all the while having a ball. ALS took him 3 years ago and I promised him to ride every wave for us as long as I could.

My original goal was to surf until age 70. Turned 69 last week, so I've pushed that goal up to 80 - Billy on Swaylocks

(note: random pic, not Billy)

Never too old to be a Grommet!

2011-12-14T05:45:00.000-08:00

Here's an entry for your over 50 surfing blog.

My husband and I have been married for 35 years. Both he and I have lived in California beach towns -- on and off -- both before and after we met -- but we never surfed! We loved the atmosphere in these places, but didn't realize it was surfing which made them mellow and fun. (Especially weird for him, as he was raised in California and was always athletic).

Anyway, we are both in our 60s and retired and we found a Mexican beach town to live in. We are surfing for the first time and we adore it - even though we both suck, of course. He has chronic neck and back pain, I have lower back pain, arthitis in my knees, and a rotator cuff injury, but we don't care. We are so so happy in the waves. Haven't laughed this much in years and years. We love the ocean, the sand, the surfers and the scene. Everyone seems so happy on the beach. It is truly a relaxing and joyful experience.

We body board for 2 hours and it takes us 2 days to recover. We don't care, we are having a blast. It's almost like we are young again, and living in Santa Cruz in the 70s. Hey, there's always Tylenol. My husband is going to be trying out a longboard in a few days. I'm still on the body board, building up my strength. Surfing is a beautiful beautiful sport and lifestyle.

Thanks for the blog. We'll be following it.

The VVA Veteran

2011-10-31T09:07:00.000-07:00

The VVA Veteran: or Member of USARSUPTHAI at Camp Friendship, Korat, Thailand in 1970.....I am looking to find the guys I served with in Thailand at Camp Friendship in Korat from Jan. 1970 to Aug. 1970. The names I remember and we all played golf together in Thailand were Sgt. Bob Campbell, Bill Able, Denny Meinert, Lt. Brooks Payne who was head of "special services" at Camp Friendship during this time. There was another guy named Gary Cole I would really love to get in touch with that was stationed there with me and he was the head lifeguard at the officers swimming pool at Camp Friendship.

Thanks,

Robert V. Parker
Wilmington, NC
910-297-5341

Revival!

2011-10-01T01:41:00.000-07:00

After 34 years I was just about to give up surfing. I really wasn't enjoying it. I live where the waves are marginal and infrequent. It gets cold in winter and I'm feeling old and tired. Compounding this hole I was in were back and shoulder injuries. . . . Really sad to think of leaving it all behind as I love the ocean as it's been a significant part of my life.

I recently took a trip up the east coast (of Oz). Not to surf but just a time of solace. Thank goodness I caught up with an old friend (old as in years, not length of acquaintance. Well to be fair he's only in his fifties!). He's loving surfing as much as ever. Being retired and having lots of warm water waves on hand helps! But he gave me a couple of words of wisdom:

1. Consider looking outside the box when choosing equipment.
2. Don't have too high expectations when you paddle out into the line-up. Even if it means getting no waves . . . just enjoy the moment in the ocean.

Well I've exercised those pointers and my surfing has been revived. I've bought the longest board I've ever owned. An 8' mal (see pic). And it's great. It paddles well and once I became accustomed to all the extra fibreglass it maneuvers well. Secondly, I truly am grateful for every opportunity I get to paddle out. It's weird — It kind of takes the pressure off of having to get waves. And guess what? They usually end up coming my way anyway. Sure I don't surf the heavier spots I might have years ago. But who really cares. The ocean is a wonderful gift and I feel blessed to be able to taste it's goodness.

Hopefully this renewed attitude will keep me going for a few more years!

Swaylocks is down!

2011-09-12T23:44:00.000-07:00

Until they get it back up - everyone is welcome to our new forum - its for everyone who cares to discuss the designing, building, and riding of surfboards. Come join us if you'd like.
Surfers Surfing Surfboards (forum)

old guy at Steamer's Lane on flickr

2011-09-07T08:11:00.000-07:00

ageing surfers weigh in on swaylocks...

2011-08-23T11:17:00.000-07:00

http://www2.swaylocks.com/forums/are-you-happy-where-your-surfing

I just turned 42 and am in my 30th year of surfing. I am not happy at all with where my surfing is. I am surfing as good as 20 years ago thanks to advances in the sport and equipment but the big problem is paddling. 30 years of wear and tear from surfing and my neck, back and now my right shoulder are all having problems. Will likely need rotator cuff surgery sometime soon. Getting out, duck-diving and paddling back out are all a problem. Surfing is a cake walk though. - mako224
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I'm 62 and just glad I can still surf at all anymore.

Have neither the reflexes nor the athleticism I once did, but am otherwise in pretty decent shape and still having as much fun as ever. Still ride overhead waves when I get the chance.

Surfing is the one thread of continuity which has run through my entire life's history. Feel like a kid again whenever I go in the water: it's what keeps my batteries charged and keeps me from getting depressed about being on the (hopefully) long downslope toward the big dirt nap.

My two modes of existance are pretty much "surfing" and "waiting to surf some more" (though there are other things that I like to do "while I'm waiting"). Not exactly a philosophy that's likely to bring fame and fortune. None the less, I'm content.

...I've found that here in my sixth decade on the planet (fifth in the water), I need to cross-train religiously and eat right in order to stay fit and toned enough to surf at what I consider to be a "satisfactory" level. Regular bicycling, work-outs on my Total Gym® plus going easy on sweets, alcohol and fatty foods and getting enough sleep makes a world of difference. Old bodies aren't as forgiving of abuse and neglect as young ones so maintenance and up-keep become a more mandatory chore. The pay-off can be more energy and less pain per session.

If you have serious medical issues that interfere with your surfing, try to get them addressed with chiropracty, PT or surgery. I have orthotic lifts in my shoes and have had bones spurs ground out of one shoulder and an unguinal hernia repaired. A partially prolapsed L-5 has me looking for mechanical assistance (dolly, come-along, jack, ramps, hoist, etc.) any time something heavy needs lifting or moving. Maintaining good muscle tone and reasonable body weight also helps take the strain off a sketchy lower back.

Partly depends on how bad you want to keep surfing and whether you're willing to give up other things and put in extra work to make it happen. It's all about priorities.

The day will come when for each of us when we're simply be too old and broke down to paddle out anymore. Til then, just do all you can to push that day off into the future. - DropkneesSL
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The magic numbers are three (inches thick) and twenty three (inches wide). I don't understand why but you will see those numbers over and over. Everything from a Mini Simmons to an 8' egg to a long board. Stay close to those numbers.....Get back on a long board....get back to surfing 3+ times a week. Surfing is the only thing that will improve your surfing.

I am not a fitness junkey. My wife has health issues. The best exercise for my wife is walking. It's good for me too. We walk 30-40 min, 3-4 times a week...easy...good for the heart...good for the soul. Keep moving....

am I happy with my surfing???....ha ha ....I'm happy to be able to surf...... - Stingray
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I'm 56 and I guess I'd have to say I could be happier where my surfing is, but am still glad I can participate in it. I recently started to have issues concerning my abilities that previously were second nature to me.

In the last year or so, stiffness and pain with my lower back have made popping up to my feet properly quite difficult. I've ended up having very awkward take offs, missing waves and difficulty crouching. I started to do stretches and took a yoga class to help loosen up and strengthen my core and back. So far it's been a slow progression toward getting back to feeling a 100%, but I'll keep trying to get back there.

One bright spot in all the recent darkness was riding a longboard I made some 12 yrs. ago that I had relegated to my mothball fleet. At one point in time it was my main ride, but was set aside as I made other boards. Anyway I pulled it off the rack, dusted it off and for some reason that I still can't explain, slapped on one of Cheyne Horan's Star fins that I had laying around for years and still had'nt tried.

Up until I caught the first wave using that fin, I was doubting its merits. The first wave nullified any of my doubts as the board turned just as good, as with any other fin I have used on it. That was 4 or 5 sessions ago and I have yet to take it off. I really can't say its light years better or worse than any other fin I've used on that board, but my keeping it on is a statement in itself. It does make the board feel like it noserides better though, in the sense that the board does'nt feel like it's gonna pearl as much when the wave starts to flatten out.

My advice ...try not to get caught up in what other people are riding. You probably know what works for you more than anybody. Stay stoked! - foamdust
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I am fortunate enough to have built my life around surfing. Self employed and living at the beach.

I'll be 54 next month and have been surfing since I was 7. I rode all the surf toys (except kites and hydrofoils) at one time or another.

Service related neck problems forced me to give up overarm paddling about 10 years ago and I've been strictly Kipapa (prone) ever since. This has not diminished my stoke at all. I surf as often as the conditions and my wracked up ol' body will allow. Typically 4 days out of 7. I'd like to have my 17 year old body back but that ain't gonna happen so I stretch every day, surf as often as I can, walk and bike a lot and swim when the surf is way down..

First and Foremost,

Surfing is all about having FUN. - unclegrumpy

Played Hookey & Went to the Beach on a Tuesday in August...

2011-08-15T21:14:00.000-07:00

Hey Surf Monkeys - Its Your Blog

2011-08-08T20:42:00.000-07:00

Have a story to share about keeping the stoke after age 50? Its hard to do, we know, so we all love hearing how you do it! Send your story to doghousereilley@yahoo.com, and we'll put it on the blog.

Made for Trade

2011-06-30T02:01:00.000-07:00

I made a wood gun, 9' 6", to trade with another builder. He made a 7' 6" gun for me. Two happy campers!

howz it?

2011-06-29T05:03:00.000-07:00

Happy to find your blog! I'm turning 50 next year! I learned to surf in Hawaii some years ago, but just getting back into it. I live in Wales on The Isle of Anglesey...

We have a couple spots here that could be called heavy, but mostly we pray for rideable surf on a daily basis. The winter gives us our best surf and our harshest conditions (last year surf two days after Christmas with a foot of snow and icicles surrounding Cable Bay). Water temperatures are in the mid to low 50s in the winter.

We are presently into the I'm-just-gonna-get-a-paddle-in time of year but when I'm not surfing I'm swimming as I try to keep the encroaching middle-age fat wrap at bay.

Hope all is well in your neck of the beaches. Would love to contribute to your blog from time to time.

Cheers, Greg

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(Greg has been sent an invite to join the blog as a contributor)

A week long surf story, riding the Fryes

2011-05-10T07:09:00.000-07:00

Hello, there! This spring in Point Loma - Ocean Beach we've had a lot of windswell and chop. For these conditions, I've mostly been riding two Pendoflex fishes that Steve made me—a 6'7" high aspect twin fin Fish, Papa Garribaldi and a 6'2" Swallowtail quad named Frisky—and my surf mat. This is my 60th year on this Earth and Easter 2011 marked my 47th surfing anniversary for surfing standing on a board. (I have enjoyed the ocean body-surfing and ridding mats and bellyboards as a youngster). Steve and I are getting up there in age and definitely feel it sometimes, but we keep a positive attitude and we keep moving. We take care of ourselves, eat healthy and swim to keep in shape and to support our surfing. We also love riding our 4th Gear flyers from Paul Gross, they are super fun and a work out, too. We are stoked and are grateful for each day. Steve and I are dedicated to our work and arts but the ocean helps us keep a healthy balance. Steve has a quip he likes to say with a chuckle, after a work day and an afternoon surf "Well, that's one that the couch didn't get, hahaha!"

This last week there were small clean waves, so I decided to ride a special longer board, the beautiful 7'7 Skip Frye Fish Simmons (LT Peliglide) that Skipper very kindly shared with me in 2006, after my hip replacement. This board is Skip's personal board and is named after Ladainian Tomlinson, as Skip is a big fan of the Chargers. So, I took LT for a paddle cruise and glide session, Monday through Thursday mornings and had so much fun. My favorite wave was about chest high with some lined up sections, in which a squadron of pelicans flew right over me, also gliding on the wave! The high aspect Geppie twins on the Fish Simmons allow you to trim a very high line (and change direction quickly and smoothly). It's also an amazing feeling to experience Skip's fast rail. It's been awhile since I've ridden a board over 6'7" and the glide felt wonderful. Thank you Skipper!

On Thursday the waves were more consistent and a little bigger and I could have ridden one of my smaller boards. Still, LT and I shared the longest rides on the small perfect waves, so grateful! Our friend Marcos was also out and we had fun "splitting the peak" when the sets offered only one good wave. The Thursday afternoon forecast predicted a little more surf for Friday, so I decided to dedicate the week to Skip's boards and take out the beautiful 6'8" Fish that he shaped me a few years ago. In 2007 Skipper shaped a magic 6'8" fish with special rocker and template for my favorite spots. Her name Mama Garibaldi came when the Garribaldi fish were drawn to her deep golden color. I drew a Garribaldi in a kelp barrel on the deck and an open-winged pelican above the Skipper wings. Friday morning brought a little bit more windswell and the same small southwest. Mama Garribaldi and I paddled and surfed from reef to reef and caught some fun sliders, and there were even a couple of sections where we got to boogie! As with every day this week, I paddled back so stoked to be out on the ocean enjoying the gift of a reef-to-reef paddle and the fun waves. Skipper thank you, your boards are treasures.

We are grateful to be surfing, and every wave is a gift. Take care and remember the love. God bless you.

Love and Aloha, Cher and Steve

2011-04-30T21:49:00.001-07:00

Thanks for visiting our blog - care to join in?

2011-04-20T06:36:00.001-07:00

This blog currently would like to add some more contributing writers to the roster, and get some added imput from you stoked surfers who just don't want to quit surfing and being stoked!

You don't have to be a surfer over 50 to be an author - just someone who is determined to stay fit, enjoy the active lifestyle, and never stop being stoked no matter how old you are!

If you'd like to join our blog as an active contributor, please email Huck. Just scroll down to the list of contributing authors, click Huck, then click email under my pic. Look forward to hearing from ya'!

Old Boy's Story . . .

2011-03-03T12:42:00.000-08:00

click the link: Dogtown to Rincon: Bill Urbany

2011-01-30T23:25:00.000-08:00

It was good to hit a few little ones after work the other night. The light was beautiful so I decided to sacrifice a few waves and come in early to take few shots. I reckon it was all worth it after a grabbing this shot of one of the 'old boys' that got one of the better waves that evening.

61 years old and riding a 6'0" fish!

2011-01-22T03:34:00.000-08:00

the following showed up recently as a comment on an older posting. I found it thought provoking, so I am re-posting here:

I'm 61 and I still ride short board. Well, it's a 6'0" fish. It's not always easy because I don't paddle as well as I used to and I get out of shape really fast, but when the stars are aligned correctly I can still get some fun waves. I refuse to give up on the feeling of pumping down the line, coming off the bottom and hitting the lip that only a short board offers. I have little interest in long boarding, except as a defensive weapon to get some waves on crowded days.

I just returned from a 3 week trip to Puerto Rico. The crowds were insane. Long boards, paddle boards and lunatic kooks in surf schools made getting waves at the popular point breaks impossible. But when I went around the point to shallow, harder breaking wave with an urchin covered coral reef bottom I was able to get all I wanted. I took my lumps, no doubt, I admit.

I don't ride big waves anymore. I don't think I could handle the hold-downs and the paddling. There are days when my back is so bad I can't even get to my feet or if I do, it ain't pretty to watch... and then I do "look silly". But, so frigging what? One zippy little barrel or a nice backside off the lip makes all the frustration well worth while. I feel like I'm playing with house money at this point anyway.

All the little things about surfing I took for granted or was annoyed by for so many years are a joy for me now. Just paddling out, duck diving through waves, scratching for the horizon when a big set is coming, walking back to my truck in the evening after a session, feeling that wonderful exhaustion that only surfing has ever given me are things I treasure.

The thing is, don't sell yourself short because you're older. Make the effort to get in shape and stay there. Just surf alot. Screw obnoxious little groms. Some of them aren't so bad anyway. I had a kid paddle up to me and tell me how good my turns were. Made my day. I mean, let's face it, most of like compliments. And any encouragement we get at this point is welcome, no?

Most of all, ignore the old man that is in all of us. Ignore your buddies who try and discourage you because they can't or won't surf anymore. Misery loves company. Listen to the little kid who still mind surfs every wave he sees, no matter how small. Just do me a favor and give old farts like me on shorter boards a wave once in awhile... W. R.

email from the cactus camp...

2010-11-30T03:23:00.000-08:00

As I type this my long time friend the Doc, who is a periodic contributor to this blog is on one of his pilgrimages to a remote but epic desert surf location in southern Australia. Last night he emailed the following text and asked me to post it on the blog on his behalf. I have taken the liberty to include some pics of the Doc in his favorite desert habitat.

A Letter from Cactus

For the uninitiated Cactus is the surfers’ name for a series of desert breaks on the far west coast of South Australia, about 11 hours west of Adelaide, the capital of South Australia. There are no cacti native to Australia and the story behind the name is lost to antiquity.

The Cactus camp is full of familiar names and faces – old surfers return here every six months, like migrating Wildebeest, driven by some primordial impulse. Many talk about getting ‘leave passes’ from their spouses, clearly rolling pin wielding harridans or harsh uniformed women like those in The Two Ronnies, where the men are stripped of all authority and confined to frilly house dresses and exchanging gossip at the clothes line.

This morning we paddled out into building swell. In the water was a small herd of Wildebeest with a total of two heart bypasses, two cardiac stents and a knee replacement. The conversation turned to blood pressure and cholesterol medication and anti inflammatory drugs, before a solid set arrived and heart bypass spun around on his board, paddled over a feathering lip and disappeared towards the beach. Then cardiac stent took a late drop and tucked into a nice little pocket before knee replacement demonstrated his characteristic smooth carving lines, effortlessly milking the energy of his wave. All modern medical miracles.

The Doc

Fergus and gdaddy tied for 1st, Ramsnake 2nd Goomba 3rd...

2010-11-29T06:50:00.000-08:00

A tie for first place!

As the end of our first year of the Surfers Over 50 blog approaches, we tallied the posts. Founder and blogmaster yours truly doesn't count, since its my self-assigned job to keep the blog alive =)

So, then, who else do we thank for sharing the stoke for us over-50 crowd? Fergus McDingo and gdaddy share the first-place tally for most posts, then Ramsnake comes in 2nd place, Goomba 3rd. Surfsister, mal, and monty made a showing with one post each.

Steve and Cher Pendarvis and Robert Parker (oceanautic adventures) have posted by proxy (via email to me).

The other 12 authors have yet to make a showing.

Love to hear from you guys!

Face Time Surfboards

2010-11-27T23:15:00.000-08:00

Face time is quality time, time spent together, interacting, one-on-one, in person. When its you and the ocean, face time is the best time, surfing the face of the wave!

Just thinking out loud. About a name for my surfboard-making endeavors.

talk about it...

2010-11-23T12:59:00.000-08:00

Our new forum is now open for everyone who cares to discuss the designing, building, and riding of surfboards. Come join us if you'd like, just click here

1st time offered - bahrman rails workshop

2010-11-17T12:20:00.001-08:00

Since I've had and responded to many requests to explain my "bahrman rails" system, I've been thinking about how best to present/explain the system to an interested group. So after a year of using the system, I am offering a step-by-step workshop / class to interested persons. Cost will be minimal, at $15 per person. This is an online class, so all the teaching will take place at your computer, and in your own working environment whatever that is.

Bahrman rails are so named because many people asked me if my board had Jensen rails, and I had to explain it was my own rail system. So to distinguish it from any other rail systems, I began calling it the bahrman rail system. I don't claim to have invented anything new, I haven't patented or copyrighted it, and don't doubt something very similar has been done by others before. In fact, I know one shaper who posts pics online has a similar system, 'tho not identical.

With the bahrman rail system, the rails can be built first, and the strength of the board is in the rails. The rails effectively become the perimeter stringer, and a very strong one at that. Because of this, the remainder of the board can be filled in with a variety of different methods. If you normally work with foam, you can build your board with foam. The method would work well with compsand, and is probably similar to many compsand boards being made today. If you like the "fish bones" method of most hollow wood surfboards, you can build accordingly. To test the structure, I even built a board just using the rails and a piece of plywood glued top and bottom, it works fine so far.

The weight of the rails is comparable to most wood rail systems, and is dictated largely by the wood chosen. Balsa or paulownia are probably the lightest, although I have always used 2x6 Calif. redwood, sometimes combined with 1x6 cedar, because they are available very inexpensively at my local big-box stores. I recommend using an inexpensive wood that is fairly light and easy to shape for your first time. Later, once the process is understood, you may go to more expensive woods if desired.

If you want to get experimental, this is a good method to know. Because the rails carry so much of the strength of the board, the options open up for the actual remaining structure. Use your imagination. Once you understand the system, you will see that it can be modified in numerous ways, and you can proceed to customize and experiment on personalizing the process on your own future builds. A rocker table is not required for this system, but a solid flat workbench top is. Also recommended is a good set of shaping racks, like shown in the bottom picture.

This is a solid rail system, that is carved or sanded to shape. To build the rails, you will probably want to use a handheld jigsaw (which is what I use) or a bandsaw (which I would use if I had one!). Clamps are helpful, although screws can be used instead, and then taken out once the glue dries. To shape the rails, a belt sander, 4" handheld grinder with sanding disc, and power planer may be used. Although they could be shaped without power tools (carved and sanded) if so desired. Although not difficult, if you are not comfortable with "shaping" your rails, this is probably not the system for you. And you should be aware that there is a certain amount of "waste" when carving or shaping, that differs from the minimal sanding required of rails built with strips.

$15 U.S. cost of class, no refunds for withdrawal. I will set it up so that payment may be made by PayPal, credit card, or you can send a money order by mail. Everyone will have access to a step-by-step detailed explanation of the process with accompanying pictures / drawings as needed. You can proceed at your own rate, but will be expected to keep your project moving forward on a regular basis.

Classes will be conducted through a private Delphi forum not open to the public, so you must join Delphi (free), and you must be able to post pics. A separate photo-hosting site is highly recommended - like flickr photobucket or picasa, (most are free), as Delphi picture size and space is very limiting, but with a separate photo hosting site, there are no limits. I cannot answer questions very well if I can't see a pic of your project, and I will expect every student to post pics of their progress. To see if you can use Delphi and post pics, you are welcome to try my free public Delphi forum Surfers Surfing Surfboards.

I will walk everyone who joins through the process. You must have a full-sized board template (plan shape) and rocker template (stringer shape) to proceed. Because this will be a group forum, we will learn from each other also, but without the distraction of outside observers and trolls.

Registration will be open until the end of the month. At the first of December, class will begin. What you will end up with is a wood surfboard perimeter rail. You can build your board using any method you want. While the class does not concern itself with the remainder of the build, I will answer questions and discuss the options for those who desire.

If you are interested, email me at doghousereilley@yahoo.com, and title your email "bahrman rails class"

- Huck

A Longer Faster Board for Fast Hollow Waves

2010-11-16T18:07:00.000-08:00

I first began to really come to grips with consistent seriously fast hollow waves earlier this year when I began to surf the fabled sand bottom points of the Australian Southern Gold Coast on a full time basis.

Prior to giving up working for a living, my days required me to spend much of my time sitting on my ass in a very interesting, but somewhat sedentary job. I surfed some afternoons and odd weekends when conditions were suitable.

On retirment surfing returned to being a key focus in life, and with some measure of good fortune, I found myself on almost a daily basis tackling fast, small to medium, clean sand bottom barrels. Something I had always dreamed of doing but was never able to devote enough time.

But going from a relatively sedentary work life at age 55 to competing with a voracious "dog pack" most days for fast hollow waves required a level of ability that had deserted me in the intervening years. Despite my original optimism I found my overall fitness, flexibility and equipment were all seriously lacking for this new mission.

Apart from the issues of agility and fitness, in the order of things my most pressing problem appeared to be my current equipment. I was surfing a generic 7'6" roundtail thruster which had seemed to serve me well in my previous waves, but was found wanting in the current circumstances. It now seemed very sluggish in these waves and was not anywhere near fast enough to get me down the line on fast zipping waves.

After being ground into the shallow banks a number of times, I was initially a bit perplexed at how to deal with the problem, until I recalled a surf trip a couple years back to a remote Central Pacific atoll. The reef breaks there were very fast and hard to make, but one expat local was riding a long 9'2" pin tail that he had imported from the Hawiian North Shore. Because of the speed of that board he was the only one really getting through the fast reef sections.

Feeling the need for speed, I came apon a new 9"4" McTavish F4 Quad pintail in a local surf shop. After a bit of apprehension about owning something so long, I bought this board and have been riding it on long fast waves since July this year. It is not only blindingly fast in hollow fast waves, but with its quad fin set up it is incredibly manouverable for such a long board. It has seen me increase my wave count manifold and given me enormous pleasure and confidence to ride.

As for flexibility and fitness, I saw a physiotherapist who was also a fellow surfer. He gave me a range of really good yoga and core stregth exercises to do. Apart from yoga I now do around 60 sit ups daily. This has strethened my core body muscles and really allowed me to spring to my feet much more easily.

In combination with surfing most days, these excercises have really improved both my flexibility surf fitness and wave confidence enormously. So I guess the moral here is that with a little thought and enquiry it is always possible to maintain and improve your performance on waves regardless of how old you are.

Fergus McDingo

Fitness Tip of the Day

2010-11-15T08:09:00.000-08:00

*EXERCISE FOR PEOPLE OVER 50*

Begin by standing on a comfortable surface, where you have plenty of room at each side. With a 5-lb potato bag in each hand, extend your arms straight out from your sides and hold them there as long as you can. Try to reach a full minute, and then relax.

Each day you'll find that you can hold this position for just a bit longer. After a couple of weeks, move up to 10-lb potato bags, then try 50-lb potato bags and then eventually try to get to where you can lift a 100-lb potato bag in each hand and hold your arms straight for more than a full minute.

After you feel confident at that level, put a potato in each bag.

What I've Been Doing to Revitalize the Blog

2010-11-11T21:27:00.000-08:00

I've been working on revitalizing the blog for awhile now. I have several videos attached (I figured out the secret html to do the mini-videos, do you like them?). I have found some cool gadgets, the most recent is the "who has been here lately" from feedjit, kinda cool I think to see where folks are dropping in from.

I have been picking up new blogs to link to, so the little blog links on the right column are just chock-full of cool happening stuff in the surf world. And I scoured flickr for pics of older surfers that are not all "off-limits" copyright protected.

I've been trying to roust my writers, with limited success. Its always more fun when more people contribute - even if its just a pic and a line or two. Just cool to know what each other is up to.

Oh yeah, and I revamped the forum that no one ever used to include anything surfing related, and I've posted an announcement on swaylocks and tree-to-sea, as well as on all three of my blogs.

Let me know what you think about the blog, and if you have any suggestions.

Oh, and the pic. That's what my big brother has been up to lately. He doesn't surf. If he did, think of the trouble he could stay out of. Then again, would you really want to be out in the lineup with him LOL?

Pendarvis Quiver

2010-11-11T20:47:00.000-08:00

Here's what one surfing couple has been riding lately. If you'd like to know more, just let 'em know! (count me in!) Maybe we'll coax Steve and Cher into giving us a detailed rundown on these blacktailed fishy looking shortboards.

Like designing, building, shaping, glassing, riding, or discussing surfboards?

2010-11-10T18:06:00.000-08:00

Our new forum is for everyone who cares to discuss the designing, building, and riding of surfboards. Come join us if you'd like.
Surfers Surfing Surfboards (forum)

Still surfing after 50? How about Gary Linden?

2010-11-10T06:59:00.001-08:00

Surfer, shaper, and big-wave rider Gary Linden was born in 1949, and he still charges in huge, powerful surf.

You can read more about Gary here. Gary is an inspiration to us surfers over 50!

welcome to the lineup new writer EP

2010-11-09T07:20:00.000-08:00

Eric has volunteered to write some posts for surfers over 50. He's been struggling with some of the same issues a lot of us struggle with as we age, and it begins to affect our surfing.

He can tell you more about himself or his situation, if he wants, but we mainly want to extend a warm welcome from the writing staff here at Surfers Over 50! Welcome aboard, Eric! We are looking forward to hearing from you in the near future!

trouble with the popup

2010-11-08T07:58:00.001-08:00

They're discussing this subject over on swaylocks right now - check it out!
swaylocks.com/forums/trouble-standing-up-aids

Hey surfers over 50 - watcha been up to lately?

2010-11-02T22:09:00.000-07:00

This blog currently has over 20 contributing authors, but very few that are active participants. If you are listed as a contributing author to this blog, please try to post up once a month - just a note on any surfing-related things going on in your life.

We'd like to add some more prolific writers to the roster, and get some added imput from those senior surfers who just don't want to quit surfing and being stoked!

You don't have to be over 50 to be an author - just someone who is determined to stay fit, enjoy the active lifestyle, and never stop being stoked no matter how old you are!

If you'd like to join our blog as an active contributor, please email Huck. doghousereilley@yahoo.com Look forward to hearing from ya'!

Surfing with the sun, seals, and seagulls - and a call to authors

2010-11-01T21:36:00.000-07:00

I went surfing this Sunday (haloween), had a great time, in spite of the small surf. I took out my experimental hollow board, the waves were a bit more consistent in the a.m., as the tide dropped so did the size.

(that's me holding my board, but not me surfing - I snapped a shot of a female longboarder on her last wave in)

The sun was shining, the seagulls were keeping me company in the lineup, and a big old gray seal was keeping his eye on me! I caught several waves, and am having a blast riding a single fin, something I haven't done for years.

----------------------------------

For the call to authors: If you want to join the blog as a writer, let me know your email (I'm Huck in the list of contributing writers down on the right column), we're looking for verbose senior surfers LOL.

It really doesn't call for anything profound, just taking a few minutes to post up a pic and tell us what you're up to lately. We all enjoy hearing about each others' surf sessions, projects, goals, etc.

anniversary trip to the coast

2010-10-21T07:12:00.000-07:00

When you're wife lets you take your surfboard along on your anniversary trip, you know you've got a keeper! Guess that's one more reason to celebrate 23 years' of a great marriage! Here's some photos I took of a beautiful trip to S.L.O. county.

my surfboard art

2010-10-16T23:57:00.000-07:00

I love painting my homebuilt surfboards also. I know wood board builders usually don't do that, but since I use plywood a lot, its ok. Honest, it is.

some more of my homebuilt surfboards

2010-10-16T23:44:00.000-07:00

Being landlocked in Bakersfield, building surfboards is therapeutic for me when I can't go surfing.

keeping the stoke - by building surfboards

2010-10-15T21:32:00.001-07:00

One way I've found to keep my stoke up is by building my own surfboards. I've built 5 so far, rebuilt one that was broken in half that someone gave me, and started number 6.

Always one to take the hard road, my boards are built from wood, rather than foam (well, one was wood and foam!). And so far, they've all featured my custom wood rails I call "Bahrman rails".

Ticker issues over 50...

2010-08-21T21:02:00.000-07:00

I've always been fairly active and never felt the need to work out. Bicycling, snow sports, surfing, backpacking and that sort of thing seemed to keep me in shape for the most part.

As I get older I find that relatively minor injuries take a toll. A tweaked knee here, a back spasm there seemed to put me on the disabled list for a longer and longer recovery period. During those recovery periods I found myself losing ground as far as physical fitness was concerned.

A couple of years ago I found myself suddenly struggling to get air while on a steep hike out of a remote canyon. My throat felt tight, I was sucking wind and my pulse was irregular and hard to find.

I made it home and figured I was old and out of shape. I decided to purchase a heart rate monitor and begin cardiac training. I calculated my 'target zone' and programmed it in to the heart rate monitor. Day by day I rode my bike, got in the zone and kept it there for an hour or so as often as possible.

Every now and then, I'd feel those same symptoms and when I checked my monitor would find that my rate had jumped suddenly from the 165 range to 200+ in seemingly one beat. As long as I ceased the activity, the rate would drop just as suddenly back to the 165 range and I would feel better.

I discussed this with my MD who ordered a treadmill with a local cardiologist. For some reason I made it through without problems and felt no symptoms even though my rate was as high as 180 during the test. I was told I was OK but I felt as if the test was inconclusive... I.E. no symptoms during test? Whatever it was wasn't happening. That to my way of thinking didn't mean there wasn't an underlying problem.

I then went online and bought a portable EKG recording device that stores the EKG signal in 30 second intervals. I pumped out an event on my exercise bike and recorded the weird rhythm.

I showed it to my doc who seemed unimpressed but I stuck to my guns and demanded a cardiology consultation. I was dismissed as having an anxiety disorder and prescribed a powerful anti-anxiety medication. I did however leave the office with a consult for the cardiologist.

The cardiologist hooked me up with a 'holter monitor' to record any events that occured over a period of one week. I went home, got on my exercise bike and stomped one out.

After transmitting the data via telephone - it worked like a FAX machine - the cardiologist called me directly and wanted to know if I was OK. He wanted me to see another specialist ASAP for further testing and treatment.

I then received a call from the electrophysiology specialist who had received the results. He agreed to see me the following day.

I drove several hours to the hospital and was carted in to an operating room where they inserted 6 lines - 3 up each groin to the heart. I was pumped full of an adrenaline-like drug that had me shaking like a leaf. They paced my heart at 200+ with one of the internal electrodes and got me in to 'that' rhythm where I felt all of the symptoms that I had complained about.

While the weird rhythm was going they mapped out the electrical paths and using an electrical current, burnt out the section of the heart muscle that was conducting the short circuit. They called this an 'ablation' procedure.

It turned out I had been slipping in to V-Tach during strenuous exercise and that is what was causing my symptoms.

I did not have a heart attack nor do I have clogged coronaries. It was an electrical disorder... one that could have been fatal during any of the events I had experienced.

The doc said I was likely born with it. My mother had a history of a similar disturbance.

My goal in sharing this experience is to get people to see their doc if they experience any sort of symptoms like mine. Don't take "NO" for an answer. Stick to your guns and demand proper diagnostics and treatment. There have likely been too many "heart attacks" that could have been prevented had the victims sought early treatment.

Being that this is a blog for those over 50, I feel comfortable advising that this is not a good time to 'tough it out' when you don't feel right.

In this day and age of ever increasing health care costs and ever decreasing reimbursements from insurance companies, it's all too common for patients to be dismissed by docs with an eye on containing costs. It is up to us to demand the care which we need and deserve.

The life it saves could be your own...

Back in the lineup at 62 - after 20+ years away!

2010-08-11T22:05:00.000-07:00

Aloha - Here's a short bio: I'm currently 62 y/o and still surfing.

Attached are a few pics of my quiver, a pic of the gang at Bolinas circa 1967, and a pic of me taken in 2005 just after I started surfing again after a 20 + year hiatus, and before two spine surgeries at UCSF.

I currently live in the Northern California town of Petaluma and surf a spot north of the Golden Gate called Bolinas. I have been surfing there since I started in the late 50's.

Lived in Hawaii in the early 70's and work on Waikiki beach and surfed with Rabbit Kakei, Ben Aipa, Jerry Lopez, Dick Brewer, and many other locals of that era in the Islands.

Great Blog, Mahalo, Gary

surfers over 60!!

2010-07-24T15:17:00.000-07:00

Aloha! Just found your website and wanted to share some Big Island experience. Im 65 (started surfing in '55 in Waikiki) and wife is 62 (surfer/videographer), we surf almost everyday when there's surf (it is the Big Island!).

Here's a couple of pics. I am an avid paddler, and do all the repair work for our canoe club. The first shot is of our koa canoe, carved from 1 log that I have restored, the 2nd shot was taken about 5 years ago, big island secret spot.

Enjoy your blog, you should make one for surfers over 60!

Gil and Sandy

A Small Fun Day!...............

2010-07-04T03:16:00.000-07:00

...............about 3 0r 4 years ago and I am happy to report I have lost about 10 kilos since then! Good thing I decided the shortboard was just not doing the job and took the time to come back in to get my longboard. A great little session and sorry for dropping in Roland, but I was never going to be letting that one go!

surfer dude by royce 10 (Hung Tran) on flickr

2010-07-02T20:18:00.001-07:00

"People over 50 that surf look silly."

2010-07-02T11:48:00.000-07:00

I found an interesting website at http://atomicbride.com/. One page has comments from older surfers about the "good old days" at Malibu. I thought some of their comments made for interesting food for thought.

It would be easy to find excuses to give up surfing after age 50 - but I'm not about to consider it! I had 23 years of making excuses - now I'm back, and I'm here to stay!

here are some excerpts. To read more, go to http://atomicbride.com/surfwrite.html

I surfed for 17 years and at 35 owned two 10 ft. boards. I lived in the Santa Monica Canyon and took my board down to State Beach one afternoon to ride a few small waves. While I was out, a kid paddled out nearby. I liked to knee paddle and was paddling to catch a little wave.

The kid catches the same wave and rides toward me, cuts back and comes toward me again, all before I even stand up. By the time I get to my feet he's pulled out. He's riding a short board which has become the style. I stand up for a minute on my 10 ft. board then just fall over on my side into the shallow water and something clicks inside.

"That's it."

I've had my fun.

I prided myself for sticking with longboards when the trend shifted to little darts. I stuck to a slow smooth style and knee paddling.

I found myself mumbling things to younger more agile surfers like, "ya, I'd like to see what you're doing when you're 35".

I realized I was bitter about my own aging and how much surfing had changed over the years. It wasn't fun anymore. It got crowded. There were fights and too many people with bad attitudes.

I walked home and put my board away. One day I was out front when two young boys walked by. I said, "hey, you guys want some surfboards?" They looked at each other like "duh" and said, "Sure".

I gave them both my boards and never went surfing again.

- Tom McBride

"People over 50 that surf look silly." - TubeSteak

It was with a touch of sadness that I read your (and Tubesteak's) comments about "old guys", those past 50 and not wanting to look funny like them. Bill Bragg, one of the legends of South Bay, thinks that you have completely missed the point. I agree with him.

Why did you take up surfing to begin with? Most everyone I know took it up because it was "fun". When you were a kid, you rode the roller coaster because it was fun. Surfing is fun. Skiing is fun. Sky diving is fun. If surfing is fun, why should you really care what someone you never met (and would never "hang with") thinks about your fun? Do you for one minute think that the kid that took off on the short board and made two maneuvers before you got to your feet gave any thought to you on that wave past the end of that fateful day. He did not.

Ironically, long boarding is back in favor. Lots of people still surf the short boards, but I suspect that more surfers favor the long board. My kids, now in their 30's started on short boards and got very good. They are now riding long boards because frankly its more enjoyable if you're not surfing everyday and have a life out of the water.

As an aside, Kemp, Higgison, Gary Teller, L.J. Richards, George Carr, Bragg, and a few more guys are over 60 and still have incredible game. They don't look funny at all. Let's face it, surfing is one sport that is healthy, safe, cheap and immediately available to those of us who live on the coast. So Tom. I've got a couple of extra boards and wet suits. What's say we meet for a session at the Point in Ventura. Pray for surf.

- Bill Hinkle

My conclusion about surfing is that it's not like riding a bicycle (which stays with you all of your life). It's a sport that seems to require continuous work and involvement to keep the skills in place. - jon ebeling

I went down to Carlsbad with my mom when I was 15 or 16 (can't remember) and went down to Tamarack for the first time. That was truly an experience I will never forget.

I paddled out into a chatter of older men all on longboards. Being rather young and a feeling awkward I hesitated to initiate any kind of conversation. The waves were rather nice that day about 4-6 ft with nice shape. When a set rolled in I wasn't in great position but I went for a decent left anyway.

To my suprise as I was paddling for the wave I heard cheers coming from behind me and when I finally got up I looked to see and hear the older men cheering for me. I think I cracked an enormous smile than proceded to fall as I tried to cutback. When I paddled back out some of the men smiled at me and said, "nice ride". I was blown away by their kindness.

No one cared that I had never surfed there before. In fact I began to make friends with a 30 year old car salesman who frequented the spot. To say the least I was stoked. And even though I fell on that wave it represented a turning point in my outlook on surfing.

Previously when I surfed I had a hard time relaxing and being happy unless I was performing well. I had learned that you don't talk to locals from a few bad experiences I had had surfing at the pier in San Clemente. But after surfing at Tamarack I realized the true point in my surfing. I began to surf because I loved it and because I enjoyed everything about it. No longer was I concerned with how I performed. No longer did I believe that a negative attitude toward any non-locals was required.

To me those guys at Tamarack and the old timers at Old Mans that are so kind to youngblood truly represent the spirit of what surfing should be. I read a quote somewhere that stated what I believe surfing should be. The author was talking about how surfing culture has changed and how the surf culture of old focused on fun, mutual enjoyment and respect for the coastal environment.

It's really sad to see the state our world is in. People killing one another because their beliefs differ, people letting pollution infest our water, air, and earth, and on top of all that some people can't even find it in their hearts to share the waves. Well I hope that this has touched your soul and changed the world (just kidding). I think the world, at least the surfing world, would be much better off if everyone adopted an attitude like the guys at Tamarack.

Sincerely, Zach Wordes

SOME GUY AT SAN ONOFRE HAD A MASSIVE HEART ATTACK PADDLING BACK FROM TRESTLES WITH HIS KID WATCHING FROM THE BEACH.
The victim was DOA at the hospital.
Get out of the water and be a legend.

- TUBESTEAK/MALIBU

Bethany Hamilton, an inspiration

2010-07-02T11:19:00.000-07:00

I just finished reading Bethany Hamilton's autobiographical account of her shark attack where she lost her left arm, and her subsequent adjustment to surfing with one arm, and progressing in the pro ranks one-armed.

She is truly an inspiration for anyone who has obstacles blocking their dreams (and if you're over 50, you know what I mean!) - she has shown that where there's a will, there's a way.

I highly recommend the book, soon to be a motion picture (as a rule I don't like Hollywood's take on the surfing world, so I have mixed feelings about that).

I admire her spunk, her tenacity, and her positive outlook in the face of adversity.

The "I Quit" Update

2010-06-28T13:55:00.000-07:00

Remember a few weeks back when I was whining about being coerced into hitting the gym? About "quitting" the denial thing I previously had about not having to cross train in order to surf? Well, here's the update.

I have some good news and bad news for you guys about working out twice a week. The bad news is that going to the gym twice a week for 45-60 minutes a pop has had zero net effect on my weight or my waistline. The good news is that I definitely have noticed a difference in how I feel, particularly my endurance and recovery when surfing.

To recap my "workout" if you could really call it that, the boy (he's 28) and I spend about 30 minutes on the elliptical trainer. I run it at a pace that according to the machine's computer says I'm burning about 400 calories so I reckon that's probably about equal to a 4-mile walk in an hour. I also do some ab work on two machines, one where I pull into the crunch and another where I push into it. Then we usually cap off with a set of pull ups and another set of dips - for that one I'm using a machine that subsidizes my effort by counterbalancing my weight so that instead of pulling my entire 195# I'm only pulling up 135# - that enables me to get more reps.

The abdominal machine that has me pulling into the crunch has another benefit for me - it's cut down into my usage of chiropractic care from once/month to zero/month. Because of the way the seatback on that machine is positioned against my back it provides a little bit of a fulcrum for "popping" one of the vertebrae in my middle back (right between my shoulder blades) back into place. If I work that weight in the full range of motion, after about the 5th rep that vertebra pops back into place where it's supposed to be. I've had trouble with that sucker for my entire adult life, and as most people know, when one part of your spine is out of sync it tends to pull other parts of the spine out of line and sets muscles working against each other in a negative way.

Another benefit is from the elliptical in that all that movement in my hips and lower back has that area loosened up quite nicely. So now when I do a 2-hr session in the surf I don't end up with a sore lower back like I do when I'm not walking a lot or doing this. Lastly, my endurance in paddling and my recovery time from one of those sessions have both improved quite a bit.

I started noticing the onset of these benefits almost immediately after I started "working out", within the first couple weeks. It surpassed the point of providing more benefit than hassle by the end of 4 weeks. I'm still only going twice a week, so I really can't even say I'm working at it hard or that the workout represents a lifestyle change.

My point for mentioning all this on a blog is in order to provide the datapoint - you don't have to put in a lot of extra effort or change your life in order to reap some noticeable benefits in short order.

We're starting to gradually add in some extra sets and reps and adding some additional resistance as we go but neither of us are actually pushing it. Word on the street is that the addage "no pain - no gain" is currently out of vogue with a lot of the fitness folks. They've swapped in the idea that we're supposed to push hard enough to feel like we worked out, but not hard enough to be sore after quitting. Maybe buying into that is wishful thinking on my part, but one upside to it is that I don't think I'm pushing hard enough to injure anything.

Obviously, I still have lots of room for improvement. If I added another gym session and maybe started walking with my wife after dinner that would work with my efforts on the elliptical to further build my cardio and endurance. Maybe I should try to surf more - what a concept, right? If I cut down on the starches I consume I could start dropping some weight. At any rate, I feel like I'm on a slightly better track right now so that's a little bit of all right.

Aloha from Cher (and Steve) Pendarvis

2010-06-26T14:13:00.000-07:00

Hey, there! Here in PL, San Diego, we have a stoked crew of surfers over 50 who have been sharing waves and stoke for more than 40 years. Everyone enjoys sharing encouragement, recipes and tips for keeping flexible and in tune to ride the waves.

Steve and I began surfing in the mid-1960s (some friends began earlier), enjoyed the long boards of the day, the exciting transition to shorter boards and all of the creativity of the times. We're happy to see people expressing their creativity and riding a variety of crafts today. We love to ride everything, and enjoy making boards.

To keep in shape for surfing we enjoy a healthy lifestyle and keeping our bodies flexible. Some years ago, a friend said "Move it or lose it!" and we agree. We check the waves every day at sunrise and then enjoy a brisk one to two mile walk near the ocean. Steve is a surfboard shaper and glasser (and builder of Pendoflex), so he keeps moving at work.

I am an artist, writer and photographer, which requires sitting at a drawing board or computer, so I also swim at the local YMCA and in the ocean for overall fitness and flexibility. We enjoy the Surfers Over 50 blog and are stoked to contribute.

Below are pictures of Steve and I surfing in Mexico.

Our longtime friend Rick Geist is a well respected surfer, paddler and writer who is known for his good health habits that allow him to perform at his best both mentally and physically. Steve and I are grateful that he shared the recipe for this tasty salad with us. The Duke's Man-Sized Meal Salad includes raw green, yellow and purple vegetables that help you stay healthy for a lifetime. This salad is a treat for the palette and for the eye.

Good health practices include eating well and enjoying regular exercise. Buy organic vegetables when you can find them!

The Duke's Man-sized Meal Salad

Salad ingredients

Head of romaine
Purple cabbage (one of the top 10 super foods)
Carrot
Red bell pepper
Tomato
Avocado
Sunflower seeds
Celery

Utensils needed

Large poppa-sized salad bowl, plus three baby bowls
Knives
Cutting board
Grater
Garlic Press
Measuring cups
Spoons
Fork
Bowl for salad dressing, with fork to whisk ingredients

Process

Tear romaine into approximately 2 inch pieces. Slice purple cabbage thin into 2-3 inch strips. Grate the carrot. Dice the red pepper into small squares. Cut the tomato into thin wedges. Cut the celery length-wise and then cross-wise. Chop the kale thinly. Combine the romaine, carrot, red pepper, celery and kale into a bowl and toss. Cut the avocado into half, then peel and cut into length-wise slices. Slice the tomato into wedges. The tomato and avocado slices will be arranged on top after the salad is dressed and finally tossed.

Salad dressing

Purple Onion (1/4 cup)
Garlic (pressed in a garlic press)
1/2 cup olive oil
1/2 cup balsamic vinegar
Bragg's Liquid Aminos all purpose, all natural seasoning
Cayenne pepper
Parmesan cheese

Finely slice, then chop 1/4 cup of the purple onion. Combine the oil and vinegar into a small bowl. Add a healthy shake of Bragg's seasoning, and a little shake of cayenne pepper. Grate a little parmesan cheese into the bowl. Then use a fork to whisk the ingredients.
Pour the finished dressing over the salad and then toss the salad to merge the flavors. Arrange the tomato wedges and avocado slices on top the salad. Sprinkle the sunflower seeds on the finished salad as a final touch.

Ideas for variety

If you'd like to add some protein, try adding chunks of fresh grilled salmon or mahi mahi. Canned albacore or canned salmon also make a nice addition to the Man-sized Meal Salad.

Enjoy!

Aloha, Cher and Steve Pendarvis

2010-06-16T04:06:00.000-07:00

As we're all finding out, it's a hell of a thing to be getting older. Like a lot of people over 50, from time to time I idly scratch my crotch and vaguely contemplate where all the piss and vinegar that I took for granted just a few years ago has gone.

As a stand up board rider, my endurance, strength and agility have been the fundamental engine that drives my ability to have an enjoyable surf. In turn having a good surf is healthy fodder for the mind, and I suspect has been responsible for my naturally sunny disposition thats been in evidence ever since I first took to the ocean.

However I now find that in order to be properly tuned up to surf decent waves, I need to spend around a solid 30 to 40 minutes each day doing yoga exercises and stretches to maintain flexibility, agility and to build and maintain core body strength, especially in the abdominal area where the spring that gets you quickly to your feet resides. I try to back up these exercises with a trip to the local gym between two or three times a week, where I do weights and aerobic exercise.

But I'm no paragon of virtue in keeping to this schedule. I have to continually remind myself that a failure to exercise will simply translate into a failure to have fun in the oceanic realm. In this regard I have to work hard to overcome the minds natural tendency to want to slack off the program. So it helps me to have an objective to work towards, such as a planned trip to more demanding waves or even the knowledge that a bigger swell is due soon.

So the equation for me is a simple one: Exercise + Yoga + Stretching (plus a few other things like a good board, ocean knowledge and good waves) = a good surf + a sunny disposition.

Now if I can just get my seriously demented mind under control I'm sure everything will be just fine!

I am used to ...................

2010-06-08T15:56:00.000-07:00

a certain amount of pain and aches in the old bod after a surf, but sometimes, I seem to experience them more intensely than usual.

It has taken me awhile to realise that it is usually after a session where the conditions might not have been terribly good and I have wiped out a lot of times.

As our ageing, but still useful bodies, are not as flexible as they once were, I think that the contortions and distortions are bodies are forced through in a wipeout situation causes minor strains that we may otherwise not have experienced.

It is the next morning, as I am getting out of bed, that I really notice them and I hobble out of the room bent over like the old guy in the image below, until the stiffness eventually eases and I can straighten up again feeling like a surfer over 50 rather than a surfer over 90!

So, I have realised that I forgot to end this post, with the key element that I wanted to talk about, the forward bend.

I feel this is the most important regular activity I undertake to combat loss of flexibility.

This may sound strange but I generally do this in the shower as the hot water ensures my body is warm reducing the chance of injury.

Rather than a feet together yoga style bend, which I do occasionally, I am talking a feet shoulder width bend and just hanging there for a period whilst breathing gently. You will find that you are slowly able to breathe yourself further down and I can usually get the palms of my hands flat on the floor. This is the closest image I can find that matches what I am describing but with feet at shoulder width and allowing the arms to dangle or fold them up if you can get over enough to warrant it.

Doing this regularly ensures that my hamstrings are loose minimising the risk of back strain caused by tight hamstrings and releases tension in the spinal column, neck and shoulders as well as getting a bit of blood into the head.

Can you touch your toes?

Pray for surf. But first, pray for a surfboard!

2010-06-07T00:07:00.000-07:00

I did it. I pulled the plug, and went for it. Here's how it went down: I wanted a longboard - plenty of people have been telling me that's the answer to my deprived wave count condition. I mean, I was frustrated to the point of exasperation.

My wave count, sitting downline from the crowded pack at the peak, has been like one per hour - and since I get out about twice a month, for about two hours each time, I'm getting like 4 waves a month. Can you see the problem? I'm trying to get my sea legs back after 23 years away, and 4 waves a month at typically crowded so. cal. surf breaks is not cutting it!

So I decided to build me a longboard. But that takes time. Furthermore, I felt a bit bumfuzzled trying to decide on a longboard shape, since I've never ridden one! So I wanted to start by buying a used longboard, and seeing what I could learn from it. But even used, they're expensive, money is tight, bla bla bla. You know the drill, we've all been there, or are there now. Tough times, etc.

I found a couple that were pretty cheap - that I didn't really like. Then I found a couple I really liked, but the price - ouch!

I didn't want to spend irresponsibly. We're struggling to pay our bills, and I'm gonna run out and spend a chunk of change on a new toy? My mrs. never complains about how I spend (I count my blessings for that!), but still, I have a conscience you know! So I said a little prayer. I said This is important to me, but I want to be balanced in this decision. Help me out here.

I was standing in the bathroom, in front of the vanity, with my eyes closed, saying my prayer. If you don't believe in the power of prayer, you can skip the rest. I opened my eyes, and I kid you not, there was a little wad of money staring me in the face!

It turns out the medicine cabinet door was open, and the money was partially hidden behind a bottle. It startled me! Took me awhile to figure out what happened - it turns out I had stashed a bit away when I sold my old pickup truck some time back, and had completely forgotten about it!

So with my newfound cash in pocket, I made the 2-hour drive to Paso Robles to look at one of the Craigslist boards I liked, and made an offer. For the amount I found - what I could afford. They said Yes, and that was that, I'm now the proud owner of a 9' Rockin' Fig longboard!

Mind you , I don't want to be a wave hog. I just want to up my wave count from 4 a month, and maybe, just maybe (dare I wish), begin to get my sea legs back!!

anybody out there?

2010-06-06T16:29:00.000-07:00

Come on, all you blogwriters, I don't want to write this blog, I just want to read it LOL!!

I don't have any pics of late - maybe I can find something to add to this. Oh yeah, this is an Emilio Hernandez longboard I saw in Ventura - catches any wave in the vicinity!

I'm off to go look at a couple of boards for sale - maybe I'll be getting my first real longboard! (gettin' older, you know, guess its time I started riding the 'old guys' board hahaha!)

I'm Not Over 50 Yet, But My Knee Was

2010-05-24T13:53:00.000-07:00

I guess I'm still an (almost) babe to some of you since I turn 47 next month. I'm looking at 50. I see it there in the not-so-distant future. And, believe it or not, I'm excited by it. So, I asked to join the blog now.

The picture above was taken a few days after I had my knee replaced in April 2009. I was 45. My knee was that of someone in her 60's or 70's. It's now the knee of the Six Million Dollar Man or Bionic Woman. It's metallic and solid.

Surfing is not a problem. Skateboarding is not a problem. Swimming? Running? Dancing? Hiking? I can do all of it.

I say all this to explain that joint replacement does not necessarily prevent you from continuing with your athletic lifestyle regardless of your age. It seems to be in the future of many people I know who are over 50. They, like me, wore their joints out from decades of being active. Many of my friends fear the prospect of joint replacement. I can honestly say it saved me from spending the second half of my life being inactive. That would have killed me. I plan to stay athletic until my entire body finally gives out. Then I will sit back, tired as hell, and celebrate what I hope to be a long life of athleticism.

I have every intention of being as fabulous in my 50's as I think I am in my 40's!

Thanks for allowing me to join the blog.

Mary

That does it, I quit.

2010-05-14T19:26:00.000-07:00

I've been fighting it for a long time, but I've decided the time has come for me to just give in and accept it. I'm getting older and my physical attributes are in decline. I have to quit...living in denial, that is!

I have to accept the idea that if I want to continue to surf I need to start working out and cross training. Ugh. I hate "working out". Exercising for the sake of exercising. It seems so mindless. But, the alternative is to start gravitating toward even bigger boards and shorter sessions and even longer recovery times. Now I don't mind the getting older part or the idea of being eventually forced into bigger boards. I'm actually looking forward to the learning curve that goes with surfing a longboard well. But I'm still having fun on the sub-6ft (fattie) boards and I'm not looking forward to leaving those behind just yet.

Lucky for me that my son (he's 27) has entered into a period of introspection in his life. It seems that, having married and settled into being the adult and being the dad of a pre-schooler, he's put on some weight and he's no longer the skinny kid who can inhale a 1500 calorie carne asada burrito without feeling bloated for a week. He's put on some pounds and the strategy that worked for him a couple years ago (cutting down on his wife's pasta) isn't working so well for him this year.

Yeah, on a certain level I *AM* gloating, 'cause I know what's in store for him after 30. And 40. And 50. It was just a couple years ago he was giving me a hard time for dieting - he's not laughing anymore.

Since none of his buddies are available to workout with him he hit me up. I guess you could say I was his last resort. S'okay, because I wasn't all that anxious to volunteer in the first place. But, having been drafted to provide him with some external motivation I reckon I should consider this an opportunity to see him more often and maybe do something for my fat ass in the process.

So today we hit the gym. Now, having avoided the gym for most of my adult life, I wasn't sure what to expect. I had some preconceived notions about gym culture, but as it turns out the family gym wasn't as meathead-heavy as I had expected. Little old ladies, middle aged guys who are even more obese that me, a couple moms and everyone in between. Okay, so maybe I don't stand out too badly.

We found a couple of the elliptical machines, which interest me because I don't have to worry as much about my knees or the repetitive striking motion of running. Since I hadn't brought my reading glasses with me my son had to read the fine print on the instructions for me. Classic, right? We decided on a 30-minute interval and I entered my age and weight and hit the "cardio" button. It took me about 3 minutes to hit my target heart rate of 134/minute and I ended up running about 145-150 for the duration 'cause I was afraid it would get harder if I slowed down.

I did break a sweat, and I did finish without collapsing, so I guess I can call it good. After that we hit a couple of the abdominal machines and took a look around and that was that.

As it turns out it wasn't so bad. I wasn't completely bored, I didn't end up being real sore and I didn't overstress anything - which was what I was really concerned about.

Maybe I can do this after all. While I'm at it perhaps now is a good time to get back into limiting my starch intake. It would be nice to drop 20 lbs (or more), and I'm sure a weight loss like that would help me extend my current level of surfing for a while longer yet.

Maybe next time I'll try to add a couple more exercises, just to see how it goes.

email from the Pendo people!

2010-05-13T21:06:00.000-07:00

Hello

We came across your blog via SurfMatters today and enjoy reading it very much, stoked. My husband Steve and I surf and mat ride regularly. We are both over 50. We are so stoked and grateful to surf, still.

Every wave is a gift. We both began surfing in the mid-1960s. My husband Steve Pendarvis makes the Pendoflex boards. There is a little clip of Steve matt surfing on the Surfmatters blog now.

Our web site is pendo.com.

Thanks for all that you're doing, keep surfing and stay stoked!

Aloha,
Cher Pendarvis
San Diego

(Huck's note: I have invited Cher to join our blog as a contributor - cowabunga!!)

Robert Parker in Bali

2010-05-09T10:44:00.000-07:00

I received this email from Robert Parker:

Was in Bali for 2 months surfing this winter. I am a 65 year old surfer and have been surfing since 1963. If you would like to see my blog about Bali, please Google Oceanautic Adventures and you will find photos and journal of my surfing adventures there.

Aloha and Mahalo, Robert Parker

http://oceanauticadventures.blogspot.com/

I "borrowed" the image of Robert surfing, from Robert's blog (hope that's OK Robert) - check out his blog if you'd like to see more. But be forewarned, there are lots of pictures, so its kinda slow loading.

I have invited Robert to be a contributing author to this blog. Cowabunga! - Huck

2010-05-03T10:03:00.000-07:00

Hi, I recently stumbled on the blog, and am happy to find it.

I'm 57, my wife and I live in NE Connecticut, and discovered surfing only about five or six years ago. Turns out that Rhode Island surf spots are close, and I've gotten good enough to be pretty comfortable at the local point break in mid-size surf. I've been riding a 9'6" longboard, but recently bought a secondhand 8'6" thruster - something to work toward.

These days I'm surfing all I can (man, those 6-5-4's are hard to get out of), and when I can't, then as much as possible I'm working out, trying to get into better condition, and building paddling muscles. Things can get pretty flat in RI, but the next swell will come, and I've got to be ready for it! If the movie Surfing for Life is any indication, I should be able to surf for a long time to come.

But I haven't yet learned how to tell the difference between Mrs. Palmer's for warm water and Mrs. Palmer's for cool water when I lose the boxes...

I'm absolutely knackered.............

2010-04-25T23:08:00.000-07:00

..........because I have had three surf sessions over the last two days.

Yesterday, I had my new big and beautiful blue 10' single fin out in perfect peeling rights in the morning and then finished off the day further round the bay on my bodyboard in bigger and faster rights including one wave which would have to count as the longest I have ever had on a bodyboard. By the end of the ride, my right calf was really aching because I was working so hard using my fin to hold into the face that it was somewhat of a relief when it did end, right on the beach among the seaweed!

This morning, feeling a little like I really didn't need another session, I was again on the 10' single fin looking for the peeling rights from the previous day but they were not there unfortunately.

So I paddled a little further around the bay to some close outs, that were breaking into a bit of a hole, so at least I got a little face time and a lot of that much desired wave condition "By myself". The swell appeared to have come a up a little so I headed back to the point and those little right hand peelers were working again and I got three really, really excellent rides before the tide came in and it stopped working again. Just got to be in the right place at the right time!

Incidentally, we had a 6 metre swell over the weekend and knowing it would be too much for me, I took my video camera down and shot the following footage, of the many that were willing to brave it, if you are interested.

Anyway, I don't know about you guys, but I am finding that after that much surfing, my body is just not coping as well as it was when I was a little younger.

Mind you, when I first started surfing 8 and a half years ago, I found the walk up the beach trying, would only last a little while in the water and needed a couple of days get over it before I could go surfing again!

So it is all relative I guess but it definitely looks like it is going to be an increasingly obvious issue.

I think one of the key contributors is hydration and I keep forgetting to take on some water before I go surfing rather than relying on doing so after a surf and having trouble actually getting enough fluid in to myself.

I also think that a loss of flexibility is also problematic. I find I have to give my calves a good stretch in the morning before I actually stand up otherwise I am hobbling around like a much older man for a few minutes. After spending sometime over at Pranaglider's blog, I have also tentatively restarted a yoga practise again after many years of "I must get around to it soon!"

Unfinished Business

2010-04-25T17:06:00.000-07:00

After nearly thirty five years of living on or near the Southern Ocean I have now belatedly returned to live on the Australian Pacific Coast. This was my first home, the mystical the place of my youth, where I first earned my spurs as a surfer, but I ultimately left the small coastal town I came from to pursue work and career opportunities.

While I have been fortunate to enjoy half a lifetime of great waves with good friends in many fine places, I always felt I left a lot of unfinished business back in the water where I came from. Favorable circumstances have now allowed me to return to my origins and I am back in the subtropics living within a five minute walk to the nearest break.

From the first moment I stood upright on a board I became completely committed to never leaving the water until they carted me out. At the age of 55 I am more determined than ever to make good on that commitment. So I am traveling full circle and betting the mellow, warm water waves that I remember from my youth, if combined with plenty of stretching and healthy living, will allow me to log a lot more time in the tube for an awful lot longer.

A Call for Contributing Authors

2010-04-25T11:39:00.001-07:00

This blog currently has 6 actively contributing authors. We'd like to add some more to the roster, and get some added imput from you stoked surfers who just don't want to quit surfing and being stoked!

You don't have to be a surfer over 50 to be an author - just someone who is determined to stay fit, enjoy the active lifestyle, and never stop being stoked no matter how old you are!

If you'd like to join our blog as an active contributor, please email Huck. Just scroll down to the list of contributing authors, click Huck, then click email under my pic. Look forward to hearing from ya'!

Mahalo nui loa! to Gdaddy, goomba271, Monty, Ramsnake, & Fergus McDingo!!

2010-04-25T11:25:00.000-07:00

Thanks to those of you who keep this blog alive! I love surfing, but find at my age, its a lot tougher to stay out there in the lineup.

I live a few hours from the ocean now, and I don't have any fellow surfers in my neighborhood, so I rely on this blog for tips, pointers, info, and keeping up the stoke! This blog has seven followers (6 besides me!), and I get email support and appreciation as well, so your work does not go unnoticed

Props to those of you who have shared and contributed to making this blog worth having, and worth reading

Here's a pic of me with my latest homebuilt hollow wooden surfboard at the 'bu!

Derek Hynd, 53 years old, one eye, no fin - check it out!!

2010-04-22T01:01:00.001-07:00

Malibu Seniors

2010-04-17T18:02:00.000-07:00

I got a job in Pacific Palisades removing a deck - took a few days, and I had a chance to surf Malibu in the mornings. Really noticed the older guys in the surf there - lots of 'em. Good to see our age demographic well represented at this classic spot!

Unlike many of you...............

2010-04-13T16:09:00.000-07:00

...........I did not start to surf until I was nearly 50. 49 to be exact. As my newly acquired partner at the time Michelle had just started to learn, and the bloke across the road had a 7' 6" mini mal that he was willing to lend to me, I thought ok, lets have a go at this - even though I was terribly overweight and unfit.
Still a little overweight but way way fitter, healthier and having fun - so it would have to rate as one of the best decisions I have ever made!
9 years later we are still both mad keen and have organised our lives, as much as possible, around the opportunity to ride waves.
I refer to myself as a wave rider rather than a surfer because I started to realise that the majority of surfers seemed to have had a very narrow and competitive view of their chosen activity which I did not empathise with.
I am loath to:
1. Take myself too seriously.
2. Scrabble about on a shortboard when the waves are too small and not have the sense to use a more appropriate ( maybe longer? ) form of wave craft.
3. Not to be stoked to share and call others riders on to a wave.
4. Not to have a quiver of wave craft of all types that allow me to make the best of any conditions.
5. Not to understand that the 1st rule of surf etiquette includes "whoever has been waiting longest".
6. Not to understand that females have the right to share the line up also.
7. To forget that the surfer having the most fun is the best surfer.
Currently my quiver includes:
1. A 10' 10" Walden SUP
2. A 10' Warren Thompson single fin
3. An 8' 1" McTavish Carver
4. Access to a 6' 10" Aido Accelerator my partner Michelle now owns
4. A BZ Big Bruddah bodyboard
5. A POD handboard
6. and of course a pair of POD fins
I am very seriously considering adding a 4th Gear Flyer mat to my quiver also.
I create and administer the blog "Waveriders" and invite you to take the time to visit occasionally. (note from Huck: I have added the waveriders blog to my blogs list - when a new post is added, the blog will show on the right)
Hello to all of you and thanks for inviting me to contribute Huck.

the one that got away

2010-04-08T22:30:00.000-07:00

Over the recent Easter and post Easter swell on the Gold Coast in Oz, I spent a bit of time (along with many others!) attempting to get a few fun waves on the hollow sand banks around Rainbow Bay and Greenmount Point. On one occasion a solid cleanup set of about five waves pushed the crowd well into the inshore - but as I was sitting a little outside I was lucky enough to scratch over the last feathering crest and avoided being pushed inside.

I looked around and found myself completely alone at the takeoff, and better still a perfect peak was lifting up lifted up about 15 metres directly ahead of me. As I quickly turned and began to paddle into what appeared to be a fortuitous and benevolent gift from Huey, out of the corner of my eye I saw a movement off to the inside shoulder.

Suddenly my attention was riveted onto the immaculate vision - a perfect angel of a young woman paddling a white mini mal, her long blond hair still perfectly dry, shining in the sun, her bright yellow bikini standing out on her perfectly tanned, perfectly proportioned body. I could only watched in awe as she gave me a small angelic smile of acknowledgement, and effortlessly stroked into the peak on my inside, rising to her feet and pulling into a fun, hollow, head high, barrel that reeled off way down the line almost out of sight.

She had just quickly paddled out of nowhere! Once I recovered my senses, I concluded that Huey had obviously sent an Angel to punish me for past multiple sins of dropping in, snaking and many other associated felonies, and also maybe to teach me to take absolutely nothing for granted. The the score remains Angels one, Sinful Old Water Rat zero.

(photo courtesy of "Dok")

Guilheim's Reply to goomba271 (glide baby glide)

2010-04-08T06:02:00.000-07:00

I couldn’t agree more… Actually, I recently shaped two "gliders" in the 11’- 12’ range. Those boards are great :

A 12’2’’ that I made for Pierre, and my own 11’3’’

Guilhem.

Glide baby glide.....

2010-04-05T00:25:00.000-07:00

Can you remember your first wave on a surfboard? If you're old enough, as in "Over 50" it was likely on a longboard.

Maybe it was when you were a little kid on a longboard? It was for me and I'll never forget the glide.

Were you ever able to rent one of those huge tanker boards in Waikiki to feel what it was like to stand high and dry on a board of such length, width and volume that you could remain standing long after the wave had rolled under you?

I am mathematically incapable of calculating the body weight to board volume ratios of those earliest surfboard experiences but common sense suggests that we are all far from those ratios at our current weights on our current equipment.

Are all of us so hooked on the pro performance levels portrayed by the media that we entertain the fantasy of high performance surfing for ourselves at our home breaks on our own equipment?

Snap out of it, son.... it isn't going to happen. Not today and not tomorrow.

Is it out of the range of possibility that a modern SUP ridden at most of our current weights might come close? Perhaps something along the lines of a 12 foot Mickey Munoz Surftech?

Try ignoring the media hype and shape or buy something that starts to compare to the weight/volume ratios of yesterday - to once again feel the stoke that got you hooked to begin with!

glide on brothers and sisters

2010-04-02T15:25:00.000-07:00

Re: Over 50 surfers:
I celebrated my 62 bday on 3/24/10. I have been surfing since 1964. Currently I own eight boards.

Vintage:
9'3" Hansen 50/50 square tail (c/1965)
8'6" Hansen 50/50 pintail (c.1966)
8'4" Ole (circa 1967) pintail w/ 50/50 rails

Modern:
8'4" R Wood round pin single fin concave nose rider (magical board)
7'10" R Wood round pin single fin concave nose rider (a step down board)
7'10" Greg Stritch round pin channel bottom thruster (got 10' point
surf on this one!)
7'2" R Wood round pin 5 fin with FU center box.

Newest board:
6'0" Hand made Alaia (by me) just finished today, the linseed oil is drying, so I have not ridden it yet.

I appreciate your site.
Surfing? A deeply personal and intimately inspirational panacea for life on land.

I cannot remember life before I began surfing. I cannot imagine a life devoid of the privilege of the sublime pleasure of simply paddling out and catching a wave!

My advice on interacting with all the stress-filled combatants
inhabiting dry places? One should not expect too much from them, after all they don't surf.

Hey, if yer not out when the tide goes out the tide goes out witout cha!

glide on brothers and sisters, mike

secret spots of oz

2010-03-31T09:45:00.000-07:00

Hi - I’m a 59 year old kneelo from South Australia. I took up surfing in my early 30s and have become pretty passionate about it.

Twice a year for a month each time I travel about 10 hours west of Adelaide to the wild west coast of South Australia, where the desert meets the sea. North American surfers compare the environment with the Baja Peninsula.

There is a lot of secrecy surrounding the surf spots here and the locals protect them jealously. If you know where to go you can get plenty of high quality, consistent and powerful surf in conditions that would make most surfers weep with envy – often with only one or two other mates and the dolphins for company.

This year I am teaching myself to stand up for those smaller, mellower days, but I’m not planning to abandon the kneeboard any time soon.

Dok

drinks from the deep well of surf wisdom!

2010-03-28T20:51:00.000-07:00

AussieMal

Hi Guys, not only am I an over 50's surfer but I'm an over 60's surfer as well, my board of choise is a longboard but I also have a 6'4" fish & a 7'6" 70's style single fin. I just like the longboard style surfing & that suits my style. Started surfing at 14 & I think I get more out of it today than in those early days........but 1 thing......wish the crowed was like it was back then !!!!!

Soon to make another Longboard............yeah!!!!!

Nels

Like anything worthwhile surfing is about 100% physical and another 100% mental. What is "surfing" to you? Why?

Figuring out that stuff isn't really tricky. I think whatever it was that grabbed us in the first place is probably still what motivates us. If it was being "world champion" then you are royally screwed when it comes to aging, so hopefully that wasn't it for you. When it comes to equipment you will be happier if you don't think in terms of what is "proper" and what is beneath you, but rather think in terms of what equipment lets you get the most out of the experience. In 2010 pretty much anything goes. You may have to adjust the surf spots you frequent but that is good for us all anyway.

Fitness is interesting. Others pretty much already nailed that one. I started pool swimming 5-6 days a week last year and took off about 17 pounds, but at that point my hips hurt just laying on the sand. Throttled back on swimming to 3-4 days and felt better (all this with surf time too). Let life get in the way this past late fall and winter and put about 7 pounds back on, started swimming more than 2 times a month, and found I pretty much am starting over again. Can't layoff or you really slide back.

When it comes to "longboards"...you don't have to go for a heavy log. There are boards in the 8'-9' range that allow most of the benefits of a longer board while not being unweildy. And if you really don't like something, trade it in or sell it. There are all kinds of transitions in life as well as in surfing.

CAHIvet

Surfing is so much about feelings, and what we feel/want to feel can change day-to-day, even hour-to-hour. Add at least a couple of boards to your quiver--what gets you feelin' it one day won't necessarily cut it another day or at a different spot.

I'm 63 and have been surfing pretty much non-stop for 47 years, but just had an enforced lay-off of 7 months due to several cancer surgeries and the aftermath. Just prior to that, I had been feeling that the 7'5" quad egg that I was using as a reaction to the loss of quickness due to my age wasn't letting me get all that I wanted to out of the waves I was riding. I had been also using a 9'0" high-performance longboard on the smaller and/or more crowded waves, but it didn't really give much advantage since there are a whole bunch of kids and 100-lb. women riding 9'6" logs and paddling right past me.

So I made myself a couple of 6'8"s and kept the rockers at a minimum to help with entry and started having a blast with them after a short period of adjustment. Now, after the hospitalizations and treatments, with my weight down by 20 pounds, I'm a bunch weaker but still stubbornly trying to ride the shorter boards. I'm catching fewer waves, and the crowds seem more intimidating, but that zippy feeling is still in my head, and longboarding just won't cut it.

That said, yesterday was tiny but only two guys were out in front of my house, and I took the longboard out for a casual but thoroughly enjoyable session. A different feeling, but one that fit the day.

Quiver up, and just have fun.

Aloha, Chuck

Thrailkill

To paraphrase myself, ''It's far easier to put pounds on, than to take them off!'' Don't even ask how I know. You may find a board in the 7' 10'' x 21'' or 22'' range to be quite a surprise. At that size you will catch waves easily, and I have found boards in that size range (that are properly designed) are highly maneuverable. I've ridden many different size boards, and found that size to be the ''does it all'' size board for me. Just a thought for you to consider.

Old boys only.

2010-03-22T19:57:00.001-07:00

There's a break down our way that's reserved for old boys. It wasn't necessarily planned that way. Neither is it enforced in any territorial manner. Reality is it's a pretty average wave. It does pick up what little swell might be around, but it's a bit slow, fat and crumbly. That doesn't matter though. The attraction of this break is the comradery amongst the more mature of those who delight in the ocean's joys. Paddle out there and you'll hear discussions on everything from Curren to chiropractics. There's something said for aging . . . The lack of fussing over trivial matters. The perspective of looking at life from 'the other end'. The simple pleasure of sharing a few waves with buddies.

2010-03-19T16:46:00.000-07:00

I've recently been reflecting on what changes have taken place in the span of my time in the water. It's natural to become nostalgic for that previous time when waves were less crowded and when maybe we had more agility and youth than we now posses.

But it's a fair bet that your positive mental state won't be best served by continually dwelling on the past. We live in the here and now and you will need all your accumulated knowledge and wisdom to deal effectively with the new and ever changing dynamic that you now find in the water. So enjoy fond memories but don't over indulge, instead remain proactive and positive about change and the future.

If you've been in the water for many decades you are by now a hardened and evolved barnacle encrusted waterman who has stayed the distance when many lesser beings have long ago opted for an easier, less disciplined life. And remember what you might lack to a small degree in youth and agility, you more than make up for in wave knowledge, water wisdom and a whole lot of other hard learned skills.

Fergus McDingo

Rocker for Rock-n-Rollers

2010-03-17T08:54:00.000-07:00

A discussion of rocker in surfboard construction can be framed in terms that are as simple as a caveman's drawing or as complicated as a NASA airfoil study. If you spend a little time over on Swaylocks you'll see that there are a lot of design geeks who are just itching for a chance to pull out their slide rule (or spreadsheet program) expertise to quantify the effects of various elements of surfboard construction on the ride. However, since this blog is aimed more towards the general population and since I don't even own a slide rule I'm going to address the topic in caveman terms. There's nothing wrong with eating with your hands or drinking beer.

Rocker is the amount of curve to the bottom of the board. A quick and (really) dirty way to measure the effective rocker on a board that uses a fin system is to remove the fins, lay it on a level floor and apply a ruler to measure the distance between the bottom of the nose or tail to the floor. There are more accurate ways of doing this measurement but for for the sake of discussion this cheater method will usually get you close enough.

When most surfers think of rocker they fixate on nose rocker and relate that curve to their ability to make a critical drop in a steep wave without pearling. But that's just the beginning. In conjunction with the curve of the outline of the board (aka planshape) a board's rocker will also greatly affects how loosely it will turn, how and where the board will drive through a turn, and how the board will paddle.

The other thing that many surfers don't realize is that, except for the noseriders, the amount and type of tail rocker in a board has more effect on how the board will surf for most people than the nose rocker.

Everything else being equal and in general, a board with a flatter rocker will paddle faster and with less effort than a curvier rocker. It will set into trim more easily but be harder to break out of trim and harder to turn. It will pick up a soft wave more easily but in a faster wave it will be much less forgiving with respect to making the transition from paddling to surfing - the balance point is further back and more of the volume has to get past the peak before that balance point will engage. In other words, you have to paddle further into that wave before the board will pick it up and in doing so you are reducing the length of time you have to pop up and control the tail.

The amount of rocker that will work best for you depends mostly on what you're trying to do.

What conditions do you intend to use the board in? This refers both to the speed/shape of the wave as well as the size of the wave.

Are you trying to use the board in all conditions or do you intend to use it as part of a quiver of more specialized boards?

What kinds of turns do you expect or aspire to pull off on that board in those conditions?

What's your timing like with respect to making the transition between paddling and surfing?

What's your paddling like? This refers both to your endurance and your sprint speed.

What's your skill level with respect to finding the optimum stance for your board when considering its fin setup and rail configuration?

If you generally do okay with respect to your paddling, transitions, and your position on the board relative to its fin/planshape setup then you have more latitude to match your rocker with your wave shape/speed. If you're struggling with those elements then you have less latitude, which usually means you're going to need more rocker. If you're trying to surf the board more vertically then you're going to need more rocker whereas if you're going for the longer drawn out carves you're going to want less rocker.

If you surf a longboard (either traditional or performance) OR if you are looking to surf the high performance boards modeled after what the pros use then finding a board with the optimum rocker won't be a problem. Your local McSurf Superstore is full of those.

If you're looking for one of the alternative shapes like the fishes or eggs or funboards or "wider" performance boards then it can get a little tricky because most of the contemporary surfboard blanks have a lot of rocker relative to their lengths. That's good if you take after Kelly or Taj but it's bad if you take after any of your heroes from the 1970s or 1980s.

If the latter applies to you then this is where you might be better served by skipping the shop boards altogether and hooking up with a custom shaper who is in a position to either order a blank with a custom rocker or else choose an oversized blank that has your target rocker buried somewhere in the middle.

In general and with the notable exception of the longboards, I don't think most surfers - including most older surfers - need nearly as much rocker as they've been buying. If you're over 50 and you've been surfing for a long time then you probably don't have a problem with your transitions or with pearling, and you're probably not trying to blow the tail out of the water or launch an aerial.

On the upper end I like to apply the Mark Richardson filter to surfers. If someone can outsurf what MR was doing on his twins back in 1978 then they probably have use for the curvier rockers and thinner foils. If they can't outsurf MR circa 1978 then chances are pretty good that they don't need any more rocker or any less volume than what he was using.

The prevailing wisdom among aging boomers is that there are no flattering pictures of us from the late 1970s or the early 1980s. However, there were a lot of great boards back then. This is demonstrated by the modern revival of those general designs, the application of new-skool logos and fin systems notwithstanding.

pump up the volume

2010-03-16T00:25:00.000-07:00

Here are my latest two boards, based on the imput I've received about board shapes for the older surfer. One is a 7'6" hybrid, the other is a 6'7" retrofish, but thick with lots of volume. They're not glassed yet, but I'm anxious to try them out, and see if it improves my fun in the surf!

a call for authors to contribute..

2010-03-15T05:54:00.000-07:00

OK, last check showed we have 14 wise and witty wordsmiths on board...but only two have contributed! Time to suit up and paddle out, boys. Fish or cut bait. Come on in, the water's fine! hahaha

Meantime, here's some more brain food for the ageing surfer:

Luis

I´m 50 now;

I have a 6´0" (kneeboard); a 8´0", quad, and 2 longboards, 9´2" and 9´6"

I still want a mid gun an another performance longboard;

Each time I surf is about 3 hours continuos, with no big problems, but I traine a lot, and principally I lost weight (about 30 pounds)

that was what I needed to get easily in shape in the board..

nl

I just turned 36, but will chime in anyway because I just got back in the water this last August following a 5-7 year period of pretty much not surfing. I started surfing at age 13 and went hard at it until college. At 20 years old I had radical shoulder/back surgery to remove a large tumor. I was left with a fairly full range of motion but compromised paddling strength. I had been shortboarding up to that time, but living far from the water, I was not particularly proficient. Longboards allowed me to enjoy my time out a lot more and get many more waves.

This past August I started out again on my longboards. I was in pretty poor physical condition, having worked a desk job for 10 years and getting little exercise. I was getting maybe 5-7 waves per session and missing lots of waves I paddled for that I should have gotten. But after a month of sessions twice a week, I noticed a lot of improvement.

Lucky to live closer to the surf now, and after two months of consistent sessions, I began to feel very proficient on the longboard. My wave count quadrupled, I rarely missed waves, and was having a great time. Where I had before felt exerted after a session in the surf, I now had plenty of energy. I went from a 9'8" log to a 9'2" HP longboard and felt that was still a lot of board. So I made the jump to a 6'10" Fish type board.

The first few sessions on it, I got waves, but missed too many, felt exhausted and discouraged. But after about a month I started to really have fun on it. I went to a 6'4" Fish after that and it felt microscopic to me -- for about 2-3 sessions. Then it started clicking and I got lots of waves on it.

Lately I shaped myself my a 6'4" HP quad and needed a session to get used to it as well - but the second day out in head-high surf, I had the time of my life.

So my point, like the others above, is that conditioning has to do with a lot more than age. Getting out as much as possible is critical, and if that doesn't work, exercise however you can between sessions. I do a lot of hiking now, light weights, etc to stay sharp during busy workweeks or when it's raining.

Finally, try to stay away from the real crowded breaks if you aren't surfing a lot. It's just an exercise in frustration. I spent a lot of days riding closeouts at uncrowded beachbreaks with the smaller boards to work on my paddling and timing, and heck, just getting to my feet. 20 terrible waves are a lot better for getting your reflexes dialed than waiting hours for a few waves with tons of people dropping in right and left.

After this fairly intensive program for me, I am happy to say that I'm surfing better now than I was at age 18! I want to move down a bit more in board size before hitting the plateau, but my paddling strength is miles ahead of where it was six months ago.

PS - I have tons of grey hair so I am qualified to post in this thread :-)

ol

around the same age a Keith and probably get 1/3 to 1/4 of the water as the rest of the hardcore guys here but I still prefer to ride the shortest board that I can paddle.

But you're right pretty much everyone my age is on a longboard these days so its tough competeing against them and guys 15-20 years younger also riding longboards or others young enough to be my kids or grandkids riding the same size equipment as me.

I find surfing longer boards make me lazy, slower and when it's big they can be a bear to manage paddling out. Duck diving a 6'2" when you get caught inside is a breeze compared to a 9' or 10' longboard. I can't even imaging the pounding the SUP guys take when they get caught inside a breaker.

I don't catch as many waves as I would with a bigger board to the chagrine of the old timers who think guys like me are fools but when I do get a good one I have a lot more fun and can do alot more on the wave than I can with the 4-6 extra feet of foam in front of me.

Its funny that to some surfing's has become how many waves you can catch in session. I actually have an alarm go off in my head if i think I'm catching too many in respect to those sitting in the lineup with me and I'll back off letting waves go or take my time getting back out.

Sometimes on my shortboard i might get single wave in an entire session because of the crowds. But I'll make the most of it and then just go in and go home. I can always come back later when no one else wants to surf anymore in the hot surf or windy side or on shore conditions.

When we were young and lived right on the beach we surfed all day long when ever we wanted to so surfing really didn't mean that much it was just our play time.

Sometimes you'd just paddle out and just ay down on your board to get a sun tan and get away from doing your chores on land. Didn't even bother at catching a wave or looking towards the shore where you might see your parents trying to flag you to come in to help out.

Surfing is so different now its almost the same as going to the gym for the majority who don't have the benefit of living right on the beach. I find that those who still are blessd to live on the beach and can surf any time they want treat surfing differently that most of the rest in the water.

Also grey is good

BTW

regarding

"Since getting (back) into surfing at the tender young age of 54, I'm finding being a grem again at my age is a challenge. Of course, I've got many years of surfing behind me, but after a 23 year layoff, its taking a little time to regain my sea legs, and my confidence in the lineup!"

I left surfing the fall of 74' and came back to into it in 1990 when I returned home.

Alot happened in surfing between 1974 and 1990 and I came back a white whale more at home mono skiing whistler powder than swimming in the ocean.

I started off with a custom pale pink (for the mountaineering phrase "think pink")10' Jim Turnbull Country Surfboards bonzer bottomed longboard thruster Ed Searfoss made me and in a couple years worked my way down to a painted white 6' experimental epoxy/EPS channel bottom winged fish, just like in that movie Northshore. Both boards provided me unbelievable surfing memories but it was alot of effort working my way from the 10' down to the 6' and that was 20 years ago. And in the end whether I accept it or not I was still a much better surfer/swimmer at 16-18 than I am now at 53.

But it doesn't mean I'm not having as much fun..

---------------

today's illustration is a mural I painted for a friend, hope you enjoy!

from the message board...

2010-03-10T22:59:00.000-08:00

es:

I'm not quite 50, but pretty close. A little over 10 years ago I had a spinal injury that kept me out of the water for about three years. It's not like riding a bicycle, you can forget! It took quite a while to get back.

Just keep pushing. Nothing extreme, just each time you go surfing, try a little something extra. Go for that late take-off that you really don't think you'll make. You just might.

After a long wave at a point break, don't run back up the beach, but instead paddle back against the current.

After your session is just about over and your arms feel like rubber, rather than calling it a day, Paddle along the beach for twenty minutes. Nothing too hard, just push a little past what's comfortable. Personally, I think the best way to end a day of surfing is paddling along the beach as the sky turns from orange to purple.

Huck:

So...got any tips on weight loss? I lost 15 lbs. right away, doing just what you said (eat less exercise more). Now I'm at a plateau. To get back to my high school weight, I'd still need to drop another 20!

Huck:

kensurf wrote: Funny this thread comes up today. My Birthday! Im 51 now. I resorted to a longboard at about 38 or 40 yrs old. I used to kneeboard when I was a kid then at 30 got a 7' something board and worked realy hard to get a few waves in the crowds of good surfers. Then I went to an 8'6" mini log and that helped a lot. Then I ordered a 9'8" longboard and after 2 go outs my surfing was now fun!! 100% improvement ,,,, confidence 100%

Thanks Ken, that comment "worked realy hard to get a few waves in the crowds of good surfers" parallels my circumstances. It actually helped me to recognize why my board isn't working as well as I had imagined. If my favorite spots were as uncrowded as I remember them being 23 years ago, this board I have would probably be working just fine for me.

The biggest factor I didn't mention is that my usual surf spots are generally always pretty crowded. Meaning paddling into the pack of younger, aggressive surfers, to get a few waves, is pretty much mandatory. That takes a certain level of confidence, and maybe even aggression, which I don't have. I've never been a "charger", but especially now that I'm re-learning. But I hate sitting passively and not getting any waves. So I've been thinking about how best to address that with my next board.

Also, conditioning: I live several hours from the beach now. So whereas I used to get out 3-8 times a week, now I can only get out about maybe 3 times a month, often on weekends or holidays. So I can see that my board choice didn't fully address my current needs, since it was based on shapes I used to ride comfortably as a younger man in different circumstances.

doc:

I'll really be looking forward to what SammyA has to say on this. SOB has five years on me and is in far better shape and always has been, dammit. However -

I'm 55, I live in the Northeast US. I'm blue collar, which keeps me away from gyms. Injuries come more often now and the healing takes longer. And life has more things in it now.And lastly, working in the surf biz until a couple of years ago kinda soured me on surfing and surfers.

Started out on long logs...and hated it. If all I could do was longboard, I'd give it up happily. Went to paipos, then kneeboards, which required good waves, and never looked back except to gloat.

But, a few things.

It's a lot easier to stay in shape than to get back into shape. Don't be dumb, don't overdo it, as you'll hurt yourself and it takes longer to come back after 50, if in fact you do come back from an injury.

Here, we have a rather nifty sandbar kind of wave. When it's good, it's very very good and when it's bad it sucks. And summer is crowds, winter is damned cold. Spring and fall are nice.

But - the way you surf crap waves is very different from how you do the good ones. And mentally shifting gears for me just doesn't happen. Never did. The cheezy days screw you up for the good ones. So, I only go out on the challenging days, with some punch to 'em. When I can't do that, it's time to give it up. Rather than grovelling garbage days just to get in the water.

Instead, I have a 7'0" I keep for cheezy days. With a spinning reel and ya know, I like live bait. Rather than floundering and grovelling in the knee-biters, I'll go chase fish. Instead of having forgettable slop, I can have supper.

It's supposed to be fun, not work. If your ego is tied up with being the best in the water, you're gonna have to be surfing alone eventually.

And it's way too late to think about doing the pro tour. So pick your days, pick your spots, pick your waves. That is one of the really sweet things about getting a bit older: you have the skill to pick the best waves and the patience to wait for them.

Volume - Where's the beef?

2010-03-06T05:58:00.001-08:00

I was going to subtitle this rant "What's in your board?" after the Capital One commercials on TV but I thought that particular pop culture reference was a little too oblique. So I went for the cheap shot.

Anyways, since nobody called me out for my rant last week I thought I'd take it to the hole one more time. This week I want to share with those of you who don't already know a few little factoids about volume in board construction.

My favorite non-work related computer application is the AKU Shaper CAD program for surfboards from APS3000.com. The professional version of the program was built to work with CNC machines, but they also offer a "free download" version that I've found to be invaluable to me as a garage hack. Be warned that a few users have reported compatibility problems on their computers, but that seems to be the minority exception to the rule. I've never had a problem with it.

AKU Shaper does several things for me, but what I like most about it is that it calculates volumes for every file. In conjunction with the weight of the finished board the volume largely determines how much float you have to work with. Float isn't the magic bullet for paddling into waves but it is a crucial element.

The freebie download version of AKU Shaper comes with 4 generic templates that - if desired - can be used as the starting point for a design. Each template shows up with the various measurements and graphical representations of what those measurements look like when combined. AKU also shows the volume for each iteration, meaning that if you change a dimension AKU recalculates the volume.

The generic templates include the following:

Performance shortboard, 6-2 x 18.5 x 2-3/8 (27.26 liters)

Performance shortboard, 6-8 x 19.5 x 2-1/2 (32.27 liters)

Round Tailed Funboard, 7-6 x 21.5 x 2-3/4 (47.57 liters)

Performance Longboard, 9-0 x 22.75 x 2-3/4 (66.43 liters)

All these shapes have retail-friendly foils and rockers such as you would find on the floor at any McSurf Superstore.

Using the above info you can see that in addition to the differences in length, the volumes of these different designs are profound.

Where this information comes in handy is in enabling surfers to manage their volumes as well as their lengths when choosing a surfboard, whether it's an off-the-rack purchase or in hashing out a custom with their local shaper. Once a surfer finds a volume that results in a comfortable amount of float they can largely gerrymander their shapes and foils and thicknesses and rockers to more closely match their board with their comfort level.

For instance, at my fat-ass weight (and age) I like a volume of between 37-40 liters for many of my boards. Now normally the kids at the local McSurf Superstore would be pointing me to a 7-0 x 19.5 x 2-3/4 "shortboard" like the Channel Islands Flyer, or maybe a short funboard. And that board would be very comfortable to me in terms of float.

But I have other options, too. Depending on foils and rockers and deck profiles I can get the same volume in a 6-0 x 21 x 2-3/4 "Modfish" type shape that features a wider nose and tail (@ 12") of 14" and 16", respectively. If I wanted to go with a Simmons-style fish that uses the 22+" width with the 18" nose and 19" semi-square tail I could go even shorter, to as short as 5-0.

Now these are obviously extremes, and I daresay most people have a different idea of how much float they feel comfortable with. Maybe your personal float index is 33-35, or maybe it's 47-50, or maybe you want to stick to 60+. It's all good. The only rule I advocate is that knowledge is power. The more you know about what you need and what you want the closer you can get to picking out that magic combo and the less outside interpretation (guesswork) you need from the kid at the McSurf Superstore.

The bottom line here is that - with the exception of those people who have prior injuries - many older surfers have a lot more options with respect to board design and sizes than they realize, and most of those elements are separately negotiable.

more wisdom from the well

2010-03-06T05:49:00.000-08:00

sf

Hi Huck, I am afflicted with a bone disease which is stealing away my active life.

Surfing and surfboards have been my life for the past twenty years. Longboards have been reserved for the smallest of days,

until now. Ride whatever makes you happiest. To hell with what anyone else thinks.

Just keep surfing.

P.S. Width makes a huge difference if you want to stay on the shorties.

------------------------------------------

jm

I'm 55 and have been surfing over 40 years. I started on an air-mat and moved on to longboards, then shortboards AND longboards (never gave those up) AND bodysurfing AND bellyboards AND airmats... shortboards are about the only thing I left behind.

Some of my favorite surfing memories are all about the glide and you just don't get that having to pump a shortboard simply to stay in the wave.

I watch plenty of people (young and old - but all on boards too short) struggle to catch waves and often not make the waves they catch.

For an older guy just getting back in to it, I can think of any number of reasons to have a longboard in the quiver.

Each to his own. Ride what you like. Ride what works for you. There's plenty of choices in equipment and lots of different kinds of waves.

-------------------------------------------

ks

Funny this thread comes up today

My Birthday! Im 51 now

I resorted to a longboard at about 38 or 40 yrs old

I used to kneeboard when I was a kid then at 30 got a 7' something board and worked realy hard to get a few waves in the crowds of good surfers

then I went to an 8'6" mini log and that helped a lot

then I ordered a 9'8" longboard and after 2 go outs my surfing was now fun!!

100% improvement ,,,, confidence 100%

-----------------------------------------

today's entry is illustrated with a dolphin painting of mine - hope you like it!

In the beginning...

2010-03-03T07:33:00.000-08:00

It all started with a post on a message board. The response was quick and intense, with a lot of voices joining in. From that, came the genesis of this blog. So I thought it appropriate, at this time, to share some of the insight and advice of that initial thread.

There is more, much more, of course, and in time I'll share some of it. But I don't want to make this entry overwhelming. So here is just a taste of how this blog got launched...

Huck:

I see a lot of gray hair in the lineup these days.

Since getting (back) into surfing at the tender young age of 54, I'm finding being a grem again at my age is a challenge. Of course, I've got many years of surfing behind me, but after a 23 year layoff, its taking a little time to regain my sea legs, and my confidence in the lineup!

I'd love to know what other surfers over age 50 are doing regarding the challenges of surfing while ageing. Stuff like conditioning, board selection, etc. etc.

km:

Although I have a couple longboards in my garage I only ride them on rare occasions (knee high surf etc). I surf with a lot of guys as old as me or older, and they still ride all kinds of boards in all kinds (and sizes) of surf, including big waves. Get more exercise, surf more often, lose a few pounds of flab - unless you have bum joints or a bad back eventually you can ride pretty much what you want... maybe not pipeline or mavericks but most waves anyway. That's my 2cents worth, I'm sure someone will have another opinon...

lm:

I'm not 50, will be 40 in 2 weeks, but still like to hear what is said on threads such as these; my first thoughts are 23 years is a long time, surf surf and surf some more, surf as often as you can...aroebic activity to keep the weight in check...walk run bike swim, whatever, just keep moving and try to do it 3x a week...I consistently fail at my own advice though

let 'er rip!

LV:

I'm 58 and the longest board I have is an 8'6" California gun. My daily driver is a 6'2" fish. The best way to stay in surfing shape is to surf. I really notice a regression if I'm out only once a week. Mostly stiffness which affects popping up.

Eat less, exercise more. You can't imagine the difference losing 10 pounds will do ya. Being roughly the same weight you were in high school is good for more than your surfing...

That said, surfing is about exercising and having fun. If it takes a longboard to work for you, ride a longboard.

nj:

Imagine if you lived on the East Coast, where it can be flat for weeks at a time, and swells usually only last a day or two. On top of that, imagine you're looking at 50 years old just around the corner!

I'm 46, and started a regular exercise regimen about 8 years ago just to maintain my level of surfing. I stuck with it, and seem to be doing OK. I ride all kinds of boards, and get plenty of waves on them. So... add a longboard to your quiver, for sure... just because they're fun! But commit yourself to improving your conditioning, and you'll be happier, healther, and stay in the game longer. That's my plan. How long, who knows...

gd:

I'm coming up on 53 and both of my daily drivers are under 6ft, but then again I pack a lot of volume into my boards. The advantage to shorter boards is that you can more readily duck dive them than the same volume in a longer length - more leverage. The disadvantage is that a shorter board requires a better eye , better positioning, and better timing; there's less room for error. Fortunately, the physical decline that comes with getting older doesn't have that much effect on your wave judgement or timing.

I think that might be where you're at right now - after a long hiatus you haven't yet recovered or refined your wave judgement and timing. A longer length might help you compensate for that. I would also think that you might find paddling a lighter board a fair bit easier, too. On your board if you routinely have to make more than 5-8 strokes to get into a wave the weight of that board might be cutting into your wave count.

As for boards, I use different boards for different conditions and I pay a lot of attention to rockers (in particular) in relation to the waves I'm anticipating. I almost always bring two boards with me so as to have a choice. I don't always get it right but I almost never get it completely wrong. I usually aim for "just barely enough".

Beyond that I think that once you identify what you need for float the rest comes down to paddling technique and using your more limited amounts of energy wisely. For paddling it's all about the long smooth stroke and resisting the urge to short stroke. For energy conservation it's about being smart.

I don't do a lot of paddling for position, I usually don't hang out in the middle of the baitball and I don't paddle for a wave unless I think I have a decent shot at getting it. When I'm on I get about the same number of waves that I would get on a bigger board. I could probably score more waves more consistently on bigger boards but at this point I don't consider more to be better than better. I make up for my declining rate of waves-per-hour by staying out. My average session is about 2 hours. Because of that I watch the tides and time my sessions accordingly.

I think the bottom line is that my approach to surfing is a lot more mentally involved than it was when I was younger.

----------------------

I illustrated this entry with a picture of my jumping dolphins painting. Hope you enjoy it!

fitness after 50

2010-02-28T08:00:00.001-08:00

Just found this website - haven't had a chance to peruse it in depth, but looks like some interesting stuff, eh? Cool url also! Check it out, see what ya think!

http://www.fitness-after-50.com/

---------------------------

Here's a link to an article on fitness after 50 ("the gym goes gray")

http://www.webmd.com/healthy-aging/guide/fitness-after-50

---------------------------

another interesting one

http://www.squidoo.com/tomlevenduski

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Let me know if you've found any intersting websites or blogs on fitness after 50!

Think carefully before you buy a board off the rack

2010-02-27T10:57:00.000-08:00

Let's get straight to the point - hardly any of the manufacturers are designing boards for the middle aged surfer. Oh sure, there are lots of models of longboards and funboards and eggs that the older surfers tend to gravitate toward because of their increased volume and length, but few of those models were actually designed for those older surfers and the manner in which they are trying to surf a wave.

Obviously this discussion doesn't apply to the classic longboards because like fine wine that type of surfing remains timeless, even if it did fall out of favor for a while. The younger kids might be a bit more nimble with their cross stepping but they don't have any advantage as far as wave judgment or their ability to slip in and out of trim.

Most of the high performance longboards are designed based on the input from the Hi-Po LB surfers, who on average are much younger, fitter and more aggressive than the average middle aged weekend warrior. How many 55-yr old guys are trying to charge DOW waves on a longboard? Let us all pray that it is only the select few who never really stopped charging DOH waves on longboards.

The infamous funboards certainly have their merits, but in the hands of an experienced surfer they are generally perceived as being fairly utilitarian and bland. That's because they were primarily designed for novice surfers.

The disconnect here is the underlying assumption that an individual's physical attributes relative to paddling into a wave will generally match their skill set and experience. While that assumption may be relatively well founded among the younger surfers it is highly debatable when an older surfer is involved.

I reckon that there are few people who start surfing on a regular basis after 40. If someone is surfing regularly at 50 or older it's likely because they've been at it to one degree or another for a long time. There are exceedingly few novices in the 50+ age ranges. Many people in our age ranges learned on and primarily surfed lower volume equipment and naturally favor the type of surfing that prevailed in the 1970s and 1980s. That being the case, why are so many veteran surfers devolving away from that type of surfing and those types of boards by buying boards designed for novices?

Is it really for the increased float and length? I don't believe those two elements alone should override every other consideration.

If I don't get completely blasted (by you folks) for opening this line of discussion I intend to hack out several follow-up entries that I hope will inspire some of you to question every aspect of the equipment you currently ride as well as your own perceptions of your surfing.

Greetings from France!

2010-02-27T10:02:00.000-08:00

(note: click on the pictures to see them larger)

Hi,

This is Guilhem. I like your blog. Here are a few shots of myself and long-time friends:

First photo : from left to right, myself, then Jean-Baptiste (he was born on the exact same day, month and year as I. We were in the same school as kids and I took him surfing for the first time in 1968 or so. He lives in Paris but still manages a few weeks holidays in Guéthary each year), myself (just turned 55, started surfing in 1966, shaping in 1969) and Esteban (we started surfing together. I believe he must be one or two years older than I. Owns and operates a surf-shop in Guéthary.)

Second photo : same people with boards + my youngest son Christian and my daughter Gabrielle.

Cheers. Guilhem.

"I'm surprised he can remember how to surf"

2010-02-24T04:00:00.000-08:00

I recently ordered the movie Surfing for Life, about older surfers who chose to continue surfing as a lifestyle on into their senior years. On the website, there is a funny story about what motivated the maker to produce the film. It starts with an overheard conversation of two young boys at the beach...

Boy #1 said, "Do you know how old that guy is out there?" Boy #2 responded, "No, but he sure has a lot of gray hair! How old is he?" Boy # 1 shot back emphatically, "He's 45! Same age as my Dad!" Boy #2 came back with, "Wow! I'm surprised he can remember how to surf. Don't people get real forgetful when they get that old?"

anyone know what to do about leg cramps?

2010-02-24T03:55:00.000-08:00

Sometimes I get leg cramps when I'm surfing - I hate it. It ruins my session. I never had this problem when I was younger! Anyone got a good solution to this problem?

a surfboard is more fun than shuffleboard!

2010-02-24T03:26:00.000-08:00

Forget those "senior centers" - a surfboard is a lot more fun than shuffleboard!

My daughter took these pics of me having fun in small surf when she visited from Montana. Funny thing, she's 24, and I've been away from surfing for 23 years - she grew up not even knowing her dad could surf. Now, she wants to learn too!

blog entries - authors take note

2010-02-22T00:06:00.000-08:00

Don't be shy about entering stuff - you can always go back and edit, add, subtract, change, delete, etc. Also, if you have any questions I might be able to help with, you can email me. My email is listed - scroll down to my name under contributors, click on it, then click email under the word contact. BTW, you can make your email available, as I do, or not. Its up to you.

I can also help you post photos - just let me know. Its easiest (but not necessary) if you have an online photo storage site, like flickr.com, picasa, photobucket, etc. Most of them are free.

Also, if you know some cool websites related to this subject, let me know and I can add links. I've already linked to a bunch of cool blogs on the right. And if you want, add the url to this blog on your swaylock's signature (like I did), always good to get some interest going in our blog! Heck, there's more guys joining our ranks every day!

fitness regimen

2010-02-20T15:05:00.000-08:00

I know a lot of guys have more rigorous fitness programs than me! But I'm working on improving mine. Right now, here's what has worked for me:

diet - by eating less (usually just skipping lunch) and exercising more, I've dropped 15 lbs, going from 180 to 165. I try to eat healthier, and skip some of the junk food I used to eat. I still have a weakness for a warm apple fritter, 'tho! You can see my before and after pictures here. My wife has me on a variety of vitamin and mineral supplements, but as with exercise, I'm not always as diligent about it as I should be!
exercise - I belong to a gym, and try to get a weekly workout with weights, treadmill, and a variety of gym equipment, focusing on my torso, back, arms, and cardio. At home, I try to do situps, pushups, and elliptical on a regular basis. I generally try for 100 cals on the elliptical (about 8 minutes), 30 situps, and 20 pushups, per session.

I recently read Laird Hamilton's Force of Nature book, and was impressed with the seriousness with which he approaches his fitness, health, and workouts. A very inspiring book.

Huck here

2010-02-20T14:40:00.000-08:00

I'm known on the net as Huck, and I recently paddled back out into the lineup, after a 23 year layoff from surfing. I have my own blog on my personal journey back, http://retrosurf.blogspot.com/.

There are a lot of surfers over the age of 50 who have managed successfully to keep their stoke, and stay healthy enough to surf. I think the main issues that face the over-50 surfer are these:

Health and fitness
Board (or quiver) selection
Surf conditions

As we have all discovered, the ageing process affects our bodies, and our physical and athletic abilities. That has a direct bearing on our surfing. Surfing requires a physical involvement on a number of levels: the stamina and strength to paddle out, the ability to swim, and to hold our breath, in the advent of a wipeout, the flexibility, dexterity, and reflexes to stand up and to control our boards while surfing. As we age, many of us gain weight, and this can hinder our surfing. Even our vision, when it starts to go, becomes an issue in our surfing. Prolonged exposure to ultraviolet rays can take its toll after a lifetime of surfing in the sun.

Our board selection becomes more of an issue as we age. Shorter boards become more difficult to paddle and to ride (but not impossible - many over-50 surfers are still active short-board surfers!). Many of us begin looking for "easier-paddling" boards that still allow the freedom of maneuverabilty of a shorter board. Many go to longboarding, or even kneeboarding, or belly-boarding. All done in an effort to stay out in the surf, enjoying the ride!

Wave and surf-spot selection becomes more of an issue for the over-50 surfer. Most of us can't take the late drops and split-second popups like we did when we were younger. Also, crowds (of mostly young, agile, and aggressive surfers) can become more intimidating to the older surfer.

Oregon ladies hit the surf!

2010-02-20T14:33:00.000-08:00

Here's a link to an inspiring story - 5 women, all 50 years or older, decide to take up surfing!

New Blog for us Old Guys!

2010-02-20T12:28:00.000-08:00

These days, there are a lot of gray hairs in the surfing lineup. That wasn't the case when I began surfing, 38 years ago.

I started this blog for surfers like myself, who are ageing, and looking for ways to stay in the lineup and keep up the stoke - or who have something to share to help others.

So health, fitness, training, board and quiver selection, etc., is all fair game. And please post photos of yourself, your board, etc., also!

I'm inviting numerous authors to join me - if you'd like to be an author and contribute to this blog, send me an email and let me know.

Welcome! - Huck