Robert Parker in Bali

Robert Parker in Bali
blog contributor Robert Parker Surfing Bali

Saturday, September 26, 2015

eight pertinent points to ponder for the older surfer

I found this post from a senior surfer turning 68 in a couple of weeks, and here’s what he's come to accept as he ages: (the link is at the end of the post)

1.  I need more volume than ever. As far as wave-catching goes at a crowded, competitive point-break, volume is the great equalizer. At a certain point, EPS/Epoxy becomes the core/shell of choice, despite its extra cost.

2.  I need more nose rocker than ever. Despite my daily dose of push-ups, sit-ups and stretching, I get to my feet slower than at any other time in my life. Those quick-twitch muscles have gone to the same place as my short-term memory. A little extra nose-rocker buys me the added time I need.

3.  Sometimes, one good wave is enough. Especially on a big, heavy day…nothing wrong with one-and-done.

4. Tail-V, especially on LBs, is the path to “performance”. Turning ability is the cornerstone of performance by anyone’s standard. Having a shape that turns responsively allows the rider to do more than just trim.

5.  Sometimes just trimming is all I want to do.

6.  I must focus on my current abilities and disabilities, and shape to that. Doesn’t matter what I use to ride, not 30 yrs ago, not 10yrs ago, not even last year.

7.  Doesn’t matter how old or how young you are, how well or how poorly you surf, how good your equipment or how bad your equipment is, somebody is probably going to drop in on you. Get over it….

8.  Some days, its better to just go fishing. Surfing on small days, weekends, holidays, DOH+ days carry a much higher probability for frustration and disappointment. Don’t need it, don’t want it.

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  1. The day I realized that I needed "more nose rocker than ever" was a fine, fine day. It made a huge difference. Now I probably need even more yet and a bit more volume wouldn't hurt either.

  2. Great post by the way Swaylocks! And useful for many who follow.

  3. Glad you posted your experience. I have been trying so hard to stay current with all the shortboards out there. Calculating volumes, fin configurations and such. Spent allot of money in the process. In sheer frustration I grabbed my 7'2" 70s single fin and paddled out.
    It was like coming home. This is what I knew how to surf! My feet knew where to go.
    Felt so natural. So, I am done following the trend. Going back to my roots.