Fitness? I don't actively "work out", but I surf regularly, do hard physical labor for my day job, and walk an awful lot, including some pretty serious hillside stairs on a regular basis. And I try to recognize my limitations, avoiding more dangerous surf I might have braved in younger days.
I recently broke two fingers in a freak accident, when my leash wrapped around them in a breaking wave. I've been out of the water for a week now, surgery is tomorrow morning, and I'm chomping at the bit to get back out in the surf!
Losing a few pounds has helped too, I've been enjoying riding smaller boards, like the orange one pictured below, as a result. Hopefully I can keep those pesky pounds off!