Robert Parker in Bali

Robert Parker in Bali
blog contributor Robert Parker Surfing Bali

Wednesday, March 19, 2014

3/13/14......Got up early with the intention of beating the high tide and the ensuing backwash due to the big surf and the moon.   Little tough paddling out with set waves in the 6-8 foot range.  I did a late takeoff attempt and got jacked up....  ate it and my board slammed my face across the nose and eye...double barrel bloody nose and a couple cuts.    This was is just one of countless injuries local surfers have endured primarily due to the SANDAG Beach Replenishment Project that was done in 2012.   The engineers piled huge amounts of sand on our beaches and it created a steep ledge which causes horrendous backwash in high tide conditions.  Just a word of caution to other beach communities to get involved before any sand projects begin that destroy prime surf spots and take years to recover.   Ok I'm over my rant ..... today was a picture perfect South California surf day and I'm stoked !   Aloha ! 

1 comment:

  1. Thanks for sharing ... I'll pass on the rant to Surfrider in my area so they are aware of the BS effects of pseudo-replenishment.