Happy to find your blog! I'm turning 50 next year! I learned to surf in Hawaii some years ago, but just getting back into it. I live in Wales on The Isle of Anglesey...
We have a couple spots here that could be called heavy, but mostly we pray for rideable surf on a daily basis. The winter gives us our best surf and our harshest conditions (last year surf two days after Christmas with a foot of snow and icicles surrounding Cable Bay). Water temperatures are in the mid to low 50s in the winter.
We are presently into the I'm-just-gonna-get-a-paddle-in time of year but when I'm not surfing I'm swimming as I try to keep the encroaching middle-age fat wrap at bay.
Hope all is well in your neck of the beaches. Would love to contribute to your blog from time to time.
(Greg has been sent an invite to join the blog as a contributor)