Aloha! Just found your website and wanted to share some Big Island experience. Im 65 (started surfing in '55 in Waikiki) and wife is 62 (surfer/videographer), we surf almost everyday when there's surf (it is the Big Island!).
Here's a couple of pics. I am an avid paddler, and do all the repair work for our canoe club. The first shot is of our koa canoe, carved from 1 log that I have restored, the 2nd shot was taken about 5 years ago, big island secret spot.
Enjoy your blog, you should make one for surfers over 60!
Gil and Sandy