Robert Parker in Bali

Robert Parker in Bali
blog contributor Robert Parker Surfing Bali

Monday, June 7, 2010

Pray for surf. But first, pray for a surfboard!

I did it. I pulled the plug, and went for it. Here's how it went down: I wanted a longboard - plenty of people have been telling me that's the answer to my deprived wave count condition. I mean, I was frustrated to the point of exasperation.

My wave count, sitting downline from the crowded pack at the peak, has been like one per hour - and since I get out about twice a month, for about two hours each time, I'm getting like 4 waves a month. Can you see the problem? I'm trying to get my sea legs back after 23 years away, and 4 waves a month at typically crowded so. cal. surf breaks is not cutting it!

So I decided to build me a longboard. But that takes time. Furthermore, I felt a bit bumfuzzled trying to decide on a longboard shape, since I've never ridden one! So I wanted to start by buying a used longboard, and seeing what I could learn from it. But even used, they're expensive, money is tight, bla bla bla. You know the drill, we've all been there, or are there now. Tough times, etc.

I found a couple that were pretty cheap - that I didn't really like. Then I found a couple I really liked, but the price - ouch!

I didn't want to spend irresponsibly. We're struggling to pay our bills, and I'm gonna run out and spend a chunk of change on a new toy? My mrs. never complains about how I spend (I count my blessings for that!), but still, I have a conscience you know! So I said a little prayer. I said This is important to me, but I want to be balanced in this decision. Help me out here.

I was standing in the bathroom, in front of the vanity, with my eyes closed, saying my prayer. If you don't believe in the power of prayer, you can skip the rest. I opened my eyes, and I kid you not, there was a little wad of money staring me in the face!

It turns out the medicine cabinet door was open, and the money was partially hidden behind a bottle. It startled me! Took me awhile to figure out what happened - it turns out I had stashed a bit away when I sold my old pickup truck some time back, and had completely forgotten about it!

So with my newfound cash in pocket, I made the 2-hour drive to Paso Robles to look at one of the Craigslist boards I liked, and made an offer. For the amount I found - what I could afford. They said Yes, and that was that, I'm now the proud owner of a 9' Rockin' Fig longboard!

Mind you , I don't want to be a wave hog. I just want to up my wave count from 4 a month, and maybe, just maybe (dare I wish), begin to get my sea legs back!!


  1. Excellent news Huck.
    I had a cracker of a session on my 10' single fin today. So much fun!
    I look forward to hearing about your much improved wave count and how you wished to dammit you had made this move earlier!

  2. I'm lovin' it, yes! Improved wave count: yes! More fun: yes! Wish I had started back with a longboard: yes!