Sunday, July 19, 2015

surfers over 60?

As I approach age 60, I'm ecstatic to still be actively surfing.  A lot of days I paddle out "just to stay in the game", but then I always end up getting stoked on surfing every time.

Fitness?  I don't actively "work out", but I surf regularly, do hard physical labor for my day job, and walk an awful lot, including some pretty serious hillside stairs on a regular basis.  And I try to recognize my limitations, avoiding more dangerous surf I might have braved in younger days.

I recently broke two fingers in a freak accident, when my leash wrapped around them in a breaking wave.  I've been out of the water for a week now, surgery is tomorrow morning, and I'm chomping at the bit to get back out in the surf!

Losing a few pounds has helped too, I've been enjoying riding smaller boards, like the orange one pictured below, as a result.  Hopefully I can keep those pesky pounds off!



Monday, June 1, 2015

Getting in better condition.

This year has been a slow starter for me.  There are a couple of reasons for that.  First, I don't like surfing in cold water.  The winter water temps here is FL are about the same and sometimes colder than CA.  That means wet suits and booties.  I got a new West wet suit at the start of the year.  Frankly,  it wears me out just getting it on.  Booties are great for keeping your feet warm but, they add a lot of weight.  Anyways, I didn't surf as much this winter as I usually do.


The other thing that happen was I gained a few extra pounds.  It really made a big difference in my paddle power in a negative way.  A good friend suggested that I change my diet to organic vegetables.  My girlfriend and I stopped eating beef and pork products.  We also starting eating only fresh vegetables.  Those two things made a huge difference.  As a result I lost 10 pounds.  Now, I'm able to scratch into waves much easier and I have a lot more energy.  That was the single most important adjustment I made.  Anyways, it gave me the outcome I wanted.



For the last couple months I been surfing a lot more and enjoying it more than ever.  I'm continuing to eat health and surfing when the opportunity arises.  The other factor that gets me out in the water are my friends.  The guys that live and surf here are very good.  It's great to go down to the beach and see friends in the parking lot or in the line up.  Most everyone treats one another fairly and altercations are rare.



This should be a fun summer and hopefully we'll get some good waves.  

Monday, October 20, 2014

Hurricane Gonzalo comes to OBS.

This hurricane season we were fortunate to get some fun surf without the nasty weather.  Gonzalo started showing some swell on Thursday October 16th.  It was nice because the breeze was off shore and conditions were clean.  There were a lot of guys out but, there were plenty of waves for everyone.


The water was still warm (78 degress) and it was sunny.  This is the time of year when there are a lot of fish migrating so, there was a lot of marine activity.  The dolphins were having a good time and getting their fill from what I could see.  This might be the last hurricane of the season and everyone was taking advantage of it.



Friday was suppose to have been the best day.  I couldn't surf that day because I had to attend to family business.  That didn't set well but, oh well sometime family has to come first.  The last good day was Saturday.  I was able to paddle out for a late afternoon session.  It wasn't crowded except for some kids.  It turns out that most of the guys were surfed out from the day before.



Gonzalo was a lot of fun.  It'd be great if we could have another hurricane come our way.  Probably the next swell will be from the north and bring the cold wind and water.  Here are some of the locals having fun here in Ormond by the Sea.  Hurricane Gonzalo

Saturday, September 20, 2014

Hurricane Edouard 2014

We are getting fun surf here in Ormond Beach, FL.  September and October usually are the best months of the year for surfing here.  Edouard was a good hurricane because it produced a good swell with off shore breezes.  Tuesday and Wednesday were the best days.  Here is a link to see the just how good it was.
Hurricane Edouard day 1.

The second day was a lot more fun.  The swell cleaned up.  That morning the waves were glassy.  The rides were long and fun.  It was good that the kids were in school.  It was mostly older guys out.  Some on longboards others on fishes.  Here is day 2. Hurricane Edouard day 2.





It was awesome to paddle out and surf with friends.  Everyone was loving power and the ocean was alive.  I mentioned to a friend, to bad it's not like this all the time.  He replied, if it was this place would be packed.  I know that's right.  Most of the older guys are a little surfed out now.  Most will be like me watching the weather channel for the next hurricane.

Wednesday, August 6, 2014

Hurricane Bertha and a Birthday.

A couple of good things happen this week.  We started to see some swell from Bertha on Saturday August 2nd.  It was lumpy, choppy and bigger than usual which was a nice change.   Sunday morning the surf looked much bigger and pretty wild.  I did paddle out and got some fun rides but, it was a lot of work.  On Monday the surf had cleaned up a lot and it still had size to it.  Lots of guys were out and I got some fun rides that will stay with me for a while.  





My girlfriend got me a new board for my birthday.  I instantly feel in love with it and had so much fun.  It's a little bit shorter than my other fish so, I was enjoying the ride.  Anyways, Tuesday was the day.  The swell had dropped a little.  The breeze was light and the waves had cleaned up a lot.  It was non stop fun.  I had a great time.






I'm not sure what the surf is like today Wednesday.  It won't be as good as yesterday but, it'll still be fun.  I'm stoked to still be able to paddle out and have so much fun at 62.  Yes, there were a couple guys out that are older than me.

Saturday, July 5, 2014

Everyone loves Arthur.

It's summer time and that means the chance for some tropical storms.  Arthur came to life about July 2nd and by the 4th it had developed into a hurricane.  We got some fun waves for three days.




It was a lot of fun and the water was warm.  Nice to see friends out having a good time.

Tuesday, April 22, 2014

Smile, you're in paradise.

There are some real advantages in getting older.  Like being retired.  My daily routine is dependent upon the surf, tides, winds and temperature.  Some mornings I'll hang out at the house and enjoy a relaxing breakfast with my girlfriend.  Other days I'm down at the beach at the crack of dawn.  Life is good for me.  The surf here in northern Florida will always surprise you.  What I find the most surprising is how often we have off shore breezes.  Sometimes it's just in the morning and other times it's all day.  Today for example, we had off shore in the morning and light on shore in the afternoon.  I really love living at the beach.  It's just a 5 minute walk to the beach for a surf check.  That keeps me in the loop and helps me score more waves.  Plus it's fun to hang out with some fellow surfers.
One of the other good things about Florida surf is the warm water.  Since the middle of April I haven't had to wear a wet suit.  The water feels good and staying out for a couple hours isn't a problem.  It's only going to get warmer and will stay comfortable until mid or late October.  There are times when the surf is small and weak.  On those days I longboard it, SUP it or just do some projects around the house.  There are lots of times when the surf is small but, if you know the right sandbars waves can be had.  Of course you'll have to paddle out a little before of after low tide.  Anyways, I'm able to get in enough surfing here that I don't feel the need to travel somewhere else.  In the summer I do like to make a trip up to North Carolina.  I don't feel the need to leave the states and all the comforts I've become use to.


Saturday, March 22, 2014

Feels like Summer.

It was a beautiful day here in Ormond by the Sea, FL.  We've been having fun waves for the past 3 days.  Who says, Florida doesn't get surf.  It's really nice not to wear a full wet suit anymore.  There were some guys skinning it, but it's a little too cool for that.  The thing that made surfing so enjoyable today was the off shore breeze.
It's suppose to be more of the same tomorrow.  There were lots of guys out, but the beach is fairly long with lots of sandbars.  It doesn't get crowded.  Almost all the guys are friendly anyways.  Some of them have been surfing here for more than 40 years, so yeah they got it wired.  Thanks to my girlfriend Julie for the picture.

Wednesday, March 19, 2014



3/13/14......Got up early with the intention of beating the high tide and the ensuing backwash due to the big surf and the moon.   Little tough paddling out with set waves in the 6-8 foot range.  I did a late takeoff attempt and got jacked up....  ate it and my board slammed my face across the nose and eye...double barrel bloody nose and a couple cuts.    This was is just one of countless injuries local surfers have endured primarily due to the SANDAG Beach Replenishment Project that was done in 2012.   The engineers piled huge amounts of sand on our beaches and it created a steep ledge which causes horrendous backwash in high tide conditions.  Just a word of caution to other beach communities to get involved before any sand projects begin that destroy prime surf spots and take years to recover.   Ok I'm over my rant ..... today was a picture perfect South California surf day and I'm stoked !   Aloha ! 

Monday, March 17, 2014

Aloha from South San Diego

Just got done with the morning session...decent size sets, overhead plus, also lots of paddling as there is a bit of current...for those that do not know me, I am Ron, I am retired and live in Imperial Beach ,two blocks from the ocean..I have a side rack for my bicycle and it is a 3 minute ride to my favorite break....this is my third winter here in IB and it has been really good..I have developed the habit of counting my waves everyday and filling out a wave log daily..in 2013, I rode 5800 waves.....my friend dubbed me The Count Of IB...I hope to get into discussions with fellow older surfers who still have the stoke on physical and mental issues we encounter on a daily basis....thanks for reading, I'll check back soon, have a great day folks....Stoked Ron